bad idle or overheating after stopping?
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  1. #1
    Registered User LeRoiDeLaRue's Avatar
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    My temp gauge reaches :
    :
    :
    :_____________________
    :
    :

    ...... After 10 mins driving and stays there, no matter what ..... after 570 miles in three days , 460 of them in 24 hours, I wonder is the needle stuck or is my cooling system really neat?
    Last edited by LeRoiDeLaRue; 14-03-2014 at 09:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Ex-Admin, RIP Herman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeRoiDeLaRue View Post
    My temp gauge reaches :
    :
    :
    :_____________________
    :
    :

    ...... After 10 mins driving and stays there, no matter what ..... after 570 miles in three days , 460 of them in 24 hours, I wonder is the needle stuck or is my cooling system really neat?
    Needle stays round the middle between 75 and ~100 degrees or so.(someone will correct if wrong)
    Done not to alarm the driver when temperature fluctuates

    It's not a real representation of the actual temperature
    Fear keeps you alive. Fearless gets you killed

    Herman

    Vin#076 pics, Black, modified and with 234 RWHP and 276 lb/ft (275 BHP and 440 Nm @ flywheel)

    FJ1200, DynoJet Stage 1, K&N filter

    Alfa MiTo 1.4 Cloverleaf, 170 BHP, Alfa Rosso.

  3. #3
    Registered User pider100's Avatar
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    I have had this problem bad since I bought mine. Last week, changed all the spark plugs for the NGK recomended upgrade, which handle the temperature better apparently. (Bought them a while back as part of the Terminator SC upgrade which I STILL haven't got round to!!!!) So far been running great, but no sunny hot days as yet to test it.

    MG TAM #466

  4. #4
    Registered User pider100's Avatar
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    I have also got a marine 100mm duct fan to install, to draw cooler air from below the belly pan up to the top, and I intend to put vents in the bonnet during the SC install.

    MG TAM #466

  5. #5
    Registered User LeRoiDeLaRue's Avatar
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    Oooh ... any links to the kind of bonnet vents that might suit our motors? Anyone know any good specialists doing such work in the north of UK?

  6. #6
    Administrator Nich's Avatar
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    When you go Green Jim you will be able to see where this link leads to:

    https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...ghlight=bonnet

    Nich.
    Nicholas John Peter Tinker - # 484

    Manufactured on Tuesday 27th April 2004 @ 12.17.47.
    Commission Number: 24468.
    Brochure Model: M3 Tourer 4.6 V8 260PS.
    Specification Code: L01B.
    CICode: D1511.
    Trim Level: TL8.9 (M3).

    65th ZT-T 260SE to be made out of 115.
    11th ZT-T 260 SE in Pearl Black (PBT) out of 23 produced.

    Manufactured in the UK by MG Rover Group Ltd.


  7. #7
    Administrator Nich's Avatar
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    What about this:



    connected to this:



    Using the wireless remote to activate the fan when necessary.

    Just have to work out where to mount the fan.

    Nich.
    Nicholas John Peter Tinker - # 484

    Manufactured on Tuesday 27th April 2004 @ 12.17.47.
    Commission Number: 24468.
    Brochure Model: M3 Tourer 4.6 V8 260PS.
    Specification Code: L01B.
    CICode: D1511.
    Trim Level: TL8.9 (M3).

    65th ZT-T 260SE to be made out of 115.
    11th ZT-T 260 SE in Pearl Black (PBT) out of 23 produced.

    Manufactured in the UK by MG Rover Group Ltd.


  8. #8
    Registered User LeRoiDeLaRue's Avatar
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    Thing is, I dont actually see the engine overheat ... the needle stays where it stays.

    The flattening on acceleration needs sorting though - at 3500 yesterday in second it happened and two scallies in a standard ford focus flew past me

    ... i actually felt myself blushing ...

    backing the foot off a smidgeon and then immediately back on cures it though

    not the blush ... the fuel supply thing

  9. #9
    "Beast of the Night" NOCTURNAL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nich View Post
    What about this:

    [ATTACH=CONFIG] see above[/ATTACH]

    connected to this:

    [ATTACH=CONFIG] see above [/ATTACH]

    Using the wireless remote to activate the fan when necessary.

    Just have to work out where to mount the fan.

    Nich.

    whilst I would rather get to the bottom of the issue, if this would cure the symptoms, I'd consider it..... can we have an expert opinion on how long a solution like this might take to cool the fuel rail once applied? Lets assume some form of ducting to ensure cooling of the actual rail area as well...
    what I am saying is once it had reached this 'faulty' state is that too late to turn on the fan?? or would it need to be running permanently?

    still interested in the 'why' when it hasn't done it for many previous years of identical driving patterns..

    Nick
    Last edited by NOCTURNAL; 16-03-2014 at 11:36 AM.
    Nick

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