Possible top strut bearing problem

[Bainzi]

My O/S front wheel has some movement in it (only a bit but noticable)when rocked back and forth at the top of the wheel. Its not there when the wheel is off the ground? but is when the cars on all four wheels, the drivers side is fine and theres no wheel wobble/nocking/pull to one side etc. Weird!

[Willieo]

Yes just got the complete mounts on the same ebay link. No sense faffing about changing the bearing when you get the whole shebang for a few more ££s. I noticed that there is a little bit of adjustment of camber possible when you bolt up the clamp bracket on the strut so I went for as much of the negative side camber as it would allow as my front tyres always wear more on the outsides than insides - It could be that was exactly where it was however then nothing has changed!

[ksilver]

Why mess about with the bearing only at £22 if you can buy the whole lot for £29 ????

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-GENUINE-MG...item415607b2b3

Are these parts handed, some other sellers are quoting for Left hand and right hand, and are they the same part throughout the 75/ZT range?

[Herman]

Yes just got the complete mounts on the same ebay link. No sense faffing about changing the bearing when you get the whole shebang for a few more ££s. I noticed that there is a little bit of adjustment of camber possible when you bolt up the clamp bracket on the strut so I went for as much of the negative side camber as it would allow as my front tyres always wear more on the outsides than insides - It could be that was exactly where it was however then nothing has changed!

The parts are meant to be mounted the right way and can't be used for camber adjustment afaik. It will only put undue stress on the damper shaft and the bearing as well.

Are these parts handed, some other sellers are quoting for Left hand and right hand, and are they the same part throughout the 75/ZT range?

Parts are the same for both sides and also used throughout the complete ZT/75 range.

[2V8s]

I think that's correc that the only way to slightly adjust the camber is where the lower clamp bracket of the strut bokts with two large nuts and bolts to the hub assembly.

I think it's fine to alter that as needed, that's my understanding of what they would do during a full wheel alignment. i.e. where the check camber as well as toe?

I intend to do the same on mine especially passenger side because that one always wears the outside of the tyre too.

I cant see otherwise that there is any mechanism for adjusting of the camber?

[Herman]

I think that's correc that the only way to slightly adjust the camber is where the lower clamp bracket of the strut bokts with two large nuts and bolts to the hub assembly.

I think it's fine to alter that as needed, that's my understanding of what they would do during a full wheel alignment. i.e. where the check camber as well as toe?

I intend to do the same on mine especially passenger side because that one always wears the outside of the tyre too.

I cant see otherwise that there is any mechanism for adjusting of the camber?

Camber can't be adjusted on the front wheels. If you were to go that route you have to get adjustable wishbone bushes which are not available for the ZT as far as I know

[2V8s]

Are you sure?

That was initially what I thought but now I think there is a small degree of adjustment possible, and reading page 3 of this thread below, sees a readout from a garage where the front camber had been out and then corrected?

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...=camber&page=3

of course I could be reading this wrong

[Herman]

Are you sure?

That was initially what I thought but now I think there is a small degree of adjustment possible, and reading page 3 of this thread below, sees a readout from a garage where the front camber had been out and then corrected?

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...=camber&page=3

of course I could be reading this wrong

Initial reading of the camber was within limits and after toe-in adjustment still was. Side effect of adjusting the toe is that it will affect camber ever so slightly.


btw: camber front is the second reading from top, camber rear is the second from bottom

[2V8s]

I thought id just mention, having just last weekend also changed out the passenger side strut for the new one (of the pair) I bought, that you definitely can adjust the camber - in a limited range that is.

This can be affected in two ways.

1. The upper bearing mount can move in and out slightly in the holes of the suspension tower in the engine bay before being tightened in position. (will give very fine adjustment)

2. The lower strut mount to the wheel hub can also move within the bounds of the two bolt holes (upper and lower) before being torqued. This is a surprising amount of movement.

As my passenger tyre always wore on the outside, I have set this as far to negative camber as possible, so I'll see what result I get when I have the alignment done, and once I start to guage tyre wear.

For the lower mounts, I put everything back in position with the bolts loosly tightened. You will find the whole hub assembly can pivot on the lower arm ball joint by moving inwards and outwards at the top (I had the disc on so grabbed the disc), so the upper and lower clamp bolts move in the slightly larger diameter holes for them horizontally from e.g. lower bolt inward against hole edge i.e. towards engine, upper against outer edge will be minimum negative camber, and then the opposite (which I set) for max negative camber. so lower bolt is against outer edge, top bolt is against inner edge (towards engine). The tightened and torqued up.

If it was then found you still didnt have enough negative camber, in theory you could drill slightly to oval in a horizontal plain the upper and lower clamp holes to give move movement, and I cant see a problem with doing this if necessary?

Im sure I recall effectively reading the same thing written by Scooter somewhere?

in the pic below, though this is drivers side, you can just see the upper clamp bolt above & behind the disc. If you were to loosen this and the lower, you will find the camber can be adjusted IMO.

It is also worth noting, that due to the weight of the hub assembly, it will tend to default to pulling itself outwards at the top, i.e. less negative camber and I wonder if this was the case in factory assembly that may lead to the tyres wearing on the outside?

[Herman]

Arent we clasping at straws a bit here. I remember Peter Esling strugling with something similar.

The amount of adjustment you find will probably be within the range specified for the camber anyway.

I am also wondering what will happen if you put weight on the front again as the suspension is not positively locked (ie locking nut or dowels) but kept in place based on the friction in the clamps so I assume it will find it's natural position again, as well as the top strut bearing.

Maybe with a strut brace keeping the top struts forced in position you may see some results.

Would be interesting to see how you get on with your experiment though