Tip: Give it a try holding back the tensioner (square 3/8" drive-end, I use a ratchet) and then you can check the pulleys for noise, roughnes or excessive play before you order your alternator simply because, if it appears that you need new idler-pulley(s)/tensioner, it may be more cost effective to order them at the same time.
RockAuto do a kit with pulleys, tensioner and belt at a very reasonable price I note: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...2Cbelt%2Bdrive.
(Alternatively new bearings can be fitted into idler-pulleys and tensioner, I understand, but I've not done that myself).
David
Last edited by David; 01-01-2017 at 04:46 PM.
If I were you David I would isolate the battery drain first. As you say it may well be the light switch module but could well be lots of other things as well. If you fixate on the LSM and get it recoded you may still have the problem to solve.
Nich.
Nicholas John Peter Tinker - # 484
Manufactured on Tuesday 27th April 2004 @ 12.17.47.
Commission Number: 24468.
Brochure Model: M3 Tourer 4.6 V8 260PS.
Specification Code: L01B.
CICode: D1511.
Trim Level: TL8.9 (M3).
65th ZT-T 260SE to be made out of 115.
11th ZT-T 260 SE in Pearl Black (PBT) out of 23 produced.
Manufactured in the UK by MG Rover Group Ltd.
Undoubtedly the battery drain is my priority. I'll put a multimeter into play tomorrow and read the difference, if any, when the LSM is completely disconnected. If that is the source I'll obtain a replacement. It will be a relief if that proves to be culprit.