You forgot this Jim...........................
Nich.
You forgot this Jim...........................
Nich.
Nicholas John Peter Tinker - # 484
Manufactured on Tuesday 27th April 2004 @ 12.17.47.
Commission Number: 24468.
Brochure Model: M3 Tourer 4.6 V8 260PS.
Specification Code: L01B.
CICode: D1511.
Trim Level: TL8.9 (M3).
65th ZT-T 260SE to be made out of 115.
11th ZT-T 260 SE in Pearl Black (PBT) out of 23 produced.
Manufactured in the UK by MG Rover Group Ltd.
The Rimmers stock is a lie. There are, as far as I know, no subframes in general Xpart spares circulation.
I.e they are NLA.
That's correct for some reason when stock is zero the default is 'available to order'. Basically if something on Rimmer's says available to order don't hold your breath...
The desire to modify a vehicle is a disease that can only be treated with more modifications
Thanks for all the help - a deposit has been paid on the car today, No. 104. Should take delivery in a week or so.
Andrew
colintf
Colin Murrell
vin 00242 - Probably the only 260 to have driven the full Le Mans circuit?
MG Car Club Z Register V8 ZT/ZTT Rep.
MG Car Club V8 Register V8 ZT/ZTT Rep
MG Car Club MGF Register Regional Rep for Devon & Cornwall and Cotswold Regions.
MG Car Club MGF Register International Liaison Representative
http://www.mgfim.org/
http://www.two-sixties.com/main.htm
http://www.v8register.net/
http://www.mgfregister.org/
http://www.racethemg.com/ http://www.triple-mracing.com/
Member of MGCC (UK), MGOC, VSCC & TSSC (Triumph Sports Six Club)
Hi Andy and welcome aboard. I am in the process of arranging a replacement subframe for No.146 at the moment. As well as the other suggestions for advice, I suggest when you go green, speak to Dominic who deals with replacement subframes on behalf of the club. He is a mine of useful information for those, like myself, who may not be fully up to speed on the technical aspects and options to overcome the problem. He has kindly arranged to have the replacement refurbished subframe enamelled at his end and I am arranging to replace bushes/bolts and fit stronger link arms as well. So I will basically end up with better than new with the confidence that it should never be a problem again.
How does one detach the propshaft from the diff. I'm in the middle of doing mine and it just won't come off.
Chris Barrett..
Sunny Melton Mowbray by the sea
THE MAN WHO INVENTED THE WHEEL WAS AN IDIOT!
Now, the man who invented the other three, he was a genius.
Loosening the bolts was one of the first things I did, I think while the wheels were still on, but I might be wrong. If the handbrake is still there then put it on, otherwise stick the engine in first gear. I don't recall it being too difficult at all.
The bolts have a loctite coating which breaks down under heating. If needed, apply heat to the bolt heads. I had enormous difficulty in separating the drive shafts from the diff until I applied heat. Be careful though to keep the heat away from the oil seal.
Andrew
Cheers for the fast reply Andrew. I had no issues with the bolts so that was good. It was only when I got to lowering the subframe down that I realised that the shaft didn't come away from the diff. Turns out its just a pain and needs a firm clout to the side a few times and it'll just drop off. For future reference there is no internal spline for it to catch on, its just two facing plates behind the cv joint.
Chris Barrett..
Sunny Melton Mowbray by the sea
THE MAN WHO INVENTED THE WHEEL WAS AN IDIOT!
Now, the man who invented the other three, he was a genius.