Replacement heater valve issues

[WNJ516]

I think it's a design problem, i have fitted a new valve the heater hose from the valve was next to cold and I still had heat from the vents, i then fitted an internal non-return valve to the heater matrix return line, before it joins the valve bypass hose , this makes some diffrence but i still get slightly warm air which is a good improvement to as it was.
I have just had the aircon regassed and now i get cold air. but i have it in mind to change the valve position and type of valve, but i don't think it will get much better.
The air temp after regassing struggles to get lower than 3.9C but was better than 8.0C before, so the system is too small and the reasons that VMax 1000 gave, but every little improvement helps.

[Malcolmr]

Wow! 3.9C - that's very cold. Is that from the face level vents? Mine struggles to get below about 12C there! I might revisit the regassing process. I assume the Viseton FS10 unit that comes with the engine is good enough for all its Ford applications, so what is it about our cars that makes it "struggle"? Even with the car design issues that Herman points out, the input to the cabin from the aircon should be industry standard cold to begin with.

[Herman]

Wow! 3.9C - that's very cold. Is that from the face level vents? Mine struggles to get below about 12C there! I might revisit the regassing process. I assume the Viseton FS10 unit that comes with the engine is good enough for all its Ford applications, so what is it about our cars that makes it "struggle"? Even with the car design issues that Herman points out, the input to the cabin from the aircon should be industry standard cold to begin with.

Lots of engine heat, slightly leaking valve, water based HVAC, smaller condensor unit..............where to start?

I don't think industry standard applies

Malcolm, down under clamping the heater hose might just be the best thing

[Malcolmr]

Malcolm, down under clamping the heater hose might just be the best thing

Well, it certainly helps, Herman, but 3.9C would too, on a 40C day in a BRG car in full sun! :-) More on this in future posts, I'm sure...

Cheers...

[Herman]

Well, it certainly helps, Herman, but 3.9C would too, on a 40C day in a BRG car in full sun! :-) More on this in future posts, I'm sure...

Cheers...

One thing to bear in mind is the changed design of the heater box and potentailly the reduced size of the cooling unit.
The compressor can be as powerfull as you like but if you can't get the air cooled down fast enough it's no good.

With temperatures outside rising in their 40s, combined with the heat of the engine buidling up in the tunnel, you'd be lucky to see a 30 degree drop between ambient and inside.
What you can try is manually set the blower speed lower so the incoming air has more change(read time) to cool down when passing the cooling element and use the re-circulation option as well

[WNJ516]

Yes Malcom the 3.9 C is at the face vents or approx 2" inside them, the outside temp was a cool 22C to you anyhow, it is much better but the test will come in a traffic with outside temp of 25+ and i think it will still struggle, as Vmax states the chiller is too small, i wonder if someone had a complete heater, if a modified or larger chiller element could be fitted.or insulating the cold section to help with a cooler temp, these are just my thoughts about the problem
My wife's Rover Streetwise gets down to near 1C in the vents, and i remember the 190 i had was really cold it was a great setup.

[Malcolmr]

I'm encouraged by WN's 3.9C and will work towards that. And, Herman, yes, I have done what you suggest on hot days and can survive (just!). Car gets a bit stuffy on recirc though after a while...