Klaus
Northern Germany
2021 Mercedes-Benz GLC 300e X254 -company car-
2005 MG ZT 260 RX #315 Beast! -summer days-
1972 Mercedes-Benz 280S W108 -very few summer days-
1991 Mercedes-Benz 300TE-24 S124 -under complete restoration-
Peter - during the hot Aussie summer, I find the best solution is to clamp off the bottom heater hose in the plennum (or better still, fit a manual tap so you can close off any flow of coolant into the heater matrix. It is the bottom hose which takes the hot coolant into the matrix when the three way valve is opened. Clamping it is the only sure way of keeping hot coolant out of the heater itself. You could clamp the middle hose, the one that comes from the right hand head on the engine, but you then restrict coolant flow to the other head which may have adverse consequences.
When autumn comes, I take off the clamp and let the ATC unit do what it thinks is best! In winter I also turn off the aircon compressor.
I am still working on seeing if I can move all the pipe work and the heater tap to somewhere outside the plennum to help keep the car cool in summer. There is a lot of very hot rubber pipe and metal work in the plennum which must add a few degrees to the incoming air! One of the collective recommended lagging it all, and in the end, that might be the easiest solution.
VIN 206
This is definitely not her car...
Not sure the pipe work is the issue in the summer.
The engine generates a lot of heat and that has to go somewhere.
Also the changed tunnel which puts the bell-housing almost in the cabin is not a big help.
I'm sure you'll get a bit of improvement insulating the pipes (or re-routing) but doubt whether it will sort the problem.
Let us know how you get on............
Fear keeps you alive. Fearless gets you killed
Herman
Vin#076 pics, Black, modified and with 234 RWHP and 276 lb/ft (275 BHP and 440 Nm @ flywheel)
FJ1200, DynoJet Stage 1, K&N filter
Alfa MiTo 1.4 Cloverleaf, 170 BHP, Alfa Rosso.
I think it's a design problem, i have fitted a new valve the heater hose from the valve was next to cold and I still had heat from the vents, i then fitted an internal non-return valve to the heater matrix return line, before it joins the valve bypass hose , this makes some diffrence but i still get slightly warm air which is a good improvement to as it was.
I have just had the aircon regassed and now i get cold air. but i have it in mind to change the valve position and type of valve, but i don't think it will get much better.
The air temp after regassing struggles to get lower than 3.9C but was better than 8.0C before, so the system is too small and the reasons that VMax 1000 gave, but every little improvement helps.
WNJ516William Nigel Jenkins.
Wow! 3.9C - that's very cold. Is that from the face level vents? Mine struggles to get below about 12C there! I might revisit the regassing process. I assume the Viseton FS10 unit that comes with the engine is good enough for all its Ford applications, so what is it about our cars that makes it "struggle"? Even with the car design issues that Herman points out, the input to the cabin from the aircon should be industry standard cold to begin with.
VIN 206
This is definitely not her car...
Fear keeps you alive. Fearless gets you killed
Herman
Vin#076 pics, Black, modified and with 234 RWHP and 276 lb/ft (275 BHP and 440 Nm @ flywheel)
FJ1200, DynoJet Stage 1, K&N filter
Alfa MiTo 1.4 Cloverleaf, 170 BHP, Alfa Rosso.