Improve/restore my ZT-T bit by bit or just take it all on?
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Thread: Improve/restore my ZT-T bit by bit or just take it all on?

  1. #1
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    Default Improve/restore my ZT-T bit by bit or just take it all on?

    Dear Forum,

    A bit struggling where to place this topic in the forum. Please advice if wrong.

    I bought my #800 a couple of weeks ago after owning it from new till 2010.
    I sold it with approx 160.000 km and bought it back with 240.000 km.

    I have a company car and will remain to use that for strictly business purposes. So the 260 will be a car I use throughout the year.
    Not a lot but also in bad weather conditions or fully loaded with stuff and 5 people in it. Approx.10.000 km a year, maybe less.
    I have no plans of ever selling my car again.

    The previous owners did not look after the car very well so I am now facing:

    - Mystery cooling fluid leak
    - front end fitting very poorly (was perfect when new)
    - small dents and scratches and various places
    - Rust on the entire undercarriage (this will be an issue in a few years)
    - Rust on suspension members, subframe, etc
    - Rust but nothing is rusted beyond repair as far as I can see
    - handbrake needs to come up too high
    - dull headlights
    - V8 logo's missing (painful)

    Lots of interior work but can take that on myself for sure.

    Interestingly enough the car is actually driving rather well. Although it feels like it may have lost some of its original power.
    But also possible BMW corrupted me over the last 10 years with 300+ hp and 600+ nm Torque on my daily driver diesel and the V8 is fine.

    So I need to figure out why the car looses cooling fluid. It does not get hot. The radiator appears fine. There is no sign in the engine for leaking cylinderheads.
    I need to add a liter on 100 km. Also the small pool of fluid I found under the car after it got delivered must come from somewhere. Now driving around without the engine protection panel hoping to find it.
    Whatever I do, need to get that sorted.

    But now the bigger question. Do I attack all the rust and bodywork problems in one go? Obviously easier and allowing access to many area's.
    May even take engine, gearbox, diff, etc out.
    Has anyone done this?
    Or does anyone know a company that has the skills and time to do this properly? Does not have to be in Netherlands but English, German or Dutch speaking is a must.
    Will the parts be available, like suspension, rear subframe (overhaul, new?)?

    My biggest worry is that it will sit in the garage or at the shop for years because parts are unavailable.
    But I would also hate myself if in 5 years the car is no longer roadworthy because i did not act when i could have.

    Any experience or advice is highly appreciated.

    Thanks, Peter
    Netherlands

  2. #2
    #829 called 'Olive' David's Avatar
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    I'm only 75 km to the south of you also just off the A50. Maybe we can make an appointment for you to come over and chat about the best course of action? I certainly can't help with doing anything myself I'm afraid, but can give some worthwhile advice I think. Email me? d.bytheway@gmail.com.

    Pool of fluid under the car could have been airco condensation water-drain of course. Also don't forget that a filled expansion tank is not up to the brim of the neck, but up to the MAX mark you can see if you look way down into the reservoir from the neck. You may have been overfilling, which will all get thrown out.

    Your coolant leak, if indeed there is one, may be the intake. Several, including me, have had that problem; we will see.

    David

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    Thanks David,

    You already replied on my first post and gave me some useful suggestions.
    Will contact you for sure. Always nice to meet fellow owners.

    I have access to a garage including a host so will make pictures first.
    The "water" under the car was 100% sure cooling fluid (feel and taste confirmed).
    Also I needed to fill up again after a longer test drive (did not overfill it)

    Hope to meet you soon,
    Thanks, Peter

    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    I'm only 75 km to the south of you also just off the A50. Maybe we can make an appointment for you to come over and chat about the best course of action? I certainly can't help with doing anything myself I'm afraid, but can give some worthwhile advice I think. Email me? d.bytheway@gmail.com.

    Pool of fluid under the car could have been airco condensation water-drain of course. Also don't forget that a filled expansion tank is not up to the brim of the neck, but up to the MAX mark you can see if you look way down into the reservoir from the neck. You may have been overfilling, which will all get thrown out.

    Your coolant leak, if indeed there is one, may be the intake. Several, including me, have had that problem; we will see.

    David

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    Administrator Tim's Avatar
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    Maybe the water pump Peter. Everything you mention is do-able. Dom can refurbish the subframes, but you'll need to take them off and send them over here to be sorted. On the MGR's it's best to deal with the rust as soon as poss. We've got all four corners if you need suspension struts.
    Tim Hayton

    Some men see things as they are and say why - I dream things that never were and say why not.

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    Hello Tim,

    I sense I am going to ask a really stupid question. But who or what is Dom ?
    Love to have a address who can help me. As I will need all the help.

    I will check the waterpump again. Previous owner said it was replaced with aircon unit.
    But than he also had no clue where the navigation had gone. To have the shop tell me it the cause of a battery leak and he told them to throw it away.

    I will certainly place an order with the shop. Badges with that running pony is going to be a first but certainly not last.

    Thanks, Peter
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim View Post
    Maybe the water pump Peter. Everything you mention is do-able. Dom can refurbish the subframes, but you'll need to take them off and send them over here to be sorted. On the MGR's it's best to deal with the rust as soon as poss. We've got all four corners if you need suspension struts.

  6. #6
    Registered User jeff turbo's Avatar
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    If its coolant under the car you should be able to trace it back to a leak, could be a number of things depending on where the puddle on the floor is, without checking properly you won't know.
    Rear subframe isn't that difficult to remove and refurbish. Front and rear suspension struts as Tim pointed out are available from this two sixties site. Dom is a member on here who takes subframes to be powder coated and welded as necessary but postage to and from the UK would be quite expensive.
    Handbrake being too high would only either just need adjusting or the replace the compensator with a Mini one, as for any other rust I can't see why you would remove the engine and gearbox.
    Dull headlights may just need the covers cleaned properly you should be able to do that better once you remove the ill fitting front bumper
    Last edited by jeff turbo; 04-06-2022 at 11:08 AM.
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    #829 called 'Olive' David's Avatar
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    On the matter of the rear-subframe, I think I remember the bowed cross tube being available as an 'item'? That was used by the MGOC Workshop amongst others ... or am I dreaming it?

    Don't know if there is any possibility of that being investigate by the Club, with Dom or whoever, Tim ?
    They would be a Club shop item as hot as the front struts, I imagine.

    Would be very, very useful, particularly to members living abroad post Brexit, if they were (still) available. Exporting and re-importing a subframe from, say, Holland to the UK would I imagine be hugely expensive and difficult for a private individual I think. Not only immense transport costs, but jumping through the customs 'handling fees', tax and duty hoops, both ends, both ways! Bad enough just trying to buy a nut and bolt from the UK now. Since subframes behave like they are made of chocolate, that's probably an illegal EU personal-import anyway!

    David
    Last edited by David; 04-06-2022 at 11:29 AM.

  8. #8
    Registered User jeff turbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    On the matter of the rear-subframe, I think I remember the bowed cross tube being available as an 'item'? That was used by the MGOC Workshop amongst others ... or am I dreaming it?

    Don't know if there is any possibility of that being investigate by the Club, with Dom or whoever, Tim ?
    They would be a Club shop item as hot as the front struts, I imagine.

    Would be very, very useful, particularly to members living abroad post Brexit, if they were (still) available. Exporting and re-importing a subframe from, say, Holland to the UK would I imagine be hugely expensive and difficult for a private individual I think. Not only immense transport costs, but jumping through the customs 'handling fees', tax and duty hoops, both ends, both ways! Bad enough just trying to buy a nut and bolt from the UK now. Since subframes behave like they are made of chocolate, that's probably an illegal EU personal-import anyway!

    David
    With this subframe, surely would depend if anything needs welding etc or just surface rust?. Won't really know unless it's removed but even then there must a fabrication company in Holland that can do any work needed?
    1958 Ford Consul Convertible
    1965 Ford Zodiac Executive, being restored
    1997 Jaguar XK8 Convertible
    2003 Number 182 MGZT V8
    2004 MGZT cdti Poseidon
    2004 Number 76 MGZT V8

  9. #9
    #829 called 'Olive' David's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff turbo View Post
    With this subframe, surely would depend if anything needs welding etc or just surface rust?. Won't really know unless it's removed but even then there must a fabrication company in Holland that can do any work needed?
    Very true Jeff, but the cross-tube is the piece that is most often affected by the rot-bug at its ends because of the poor design (re drainage), as you know, and it is an usual shape to boot! I think I read that the MGOC Workshop would weld one in 'in situ', if needs must.

    If a ready fabricated solution were available, that would be a big step forward, I think. Mine is still perfectly OK, even after 350k kms., but I check it every time it goes up on the ramp, and I would put a cross-tube piece into the garage-stock if it were available, to join all the other "just in case" difficult and unique V8 parts, bushes, hoses, HEVAC and AC bits, steering, ECU etc. etc. 'Olive' is a keeper, and still a daily-drive car since "birth", so will probably out-survive me that way!

    David
    Last edited by David; 04-06-2022 at 12:19 PM.

  10. #10
    Registered User jeff turbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    Very true Jeff, but the cross-tube is the piece that is most often affected by the rot-bug at its ends because of the poor design (re drainage), as you know, and it is an usual shape to boot!

    If a ready fabricated solution were available, that would be a big step forward, I think. Mine is still perfectly OK after 350k kms., but I check it every time it goes up on the ramp, and I would put a cross-tube piece into the garage-stock if it were available, to join all the other "just in case" difficult and unique V8 parts, bushes, hoses, HEVAC, steering, ECU etc. etc. 'Olive' is a keeper, and will probably out-survive me that way!

    David
    That's true but it is only that, a tube that's bent and welded into place, for any fabrication company that wouldn't be too difficult. I had Dom's company do mine but after looking at my rusty one it's not that difficult. With luck Petes one wont need welding etc
    1958 Ford Consul Convertible
    1965 Ford Zodiac Executive, being restored
    1997 Jaguar XK8 Convertible
    2003 Number 182 MGZT V8
    2004 MGZT cdti Poseidon
    2004 Number 76 MGZT V8

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