Fuel pump issues - ZT 260

[Mick]

Hi all
MG 260 ZT - in Australia. #691
I picked this car up at an auction in November and have only just pulled my finger out to get it running. Has only 74800klms as was with a collector for many years not used. As it is my first MG it has been a challenge to get info or make contact with other owners other than Facebook and this site.
I have an issue and need help. Yes lost if detail on fuel issues and post but just donÂ?t cover it all. I have had a fuel issue and have removed the fuel pump. I have received a new pump but cannot get the original one out of the housing.
this vehicle has been sitting since 2014 so fuel has left a mess and fuel pump has died.
So have started the challenge of replacing the pump. Challenging but was keen to have a crack myself.
I have power to the pump but it does not run. Feel a new pump should help the situation.
any feedback or photos would be helpful.
Mick #691

[Nich]

Hi Mick, welcome to the 260's. The first thing you need to do is to get your questionnaire back to Tim to get full access to the 260's forum. That way you will be able to access lots of information, which at the moment, is hidden from you.

Nich.

[Mick]

Hi Nich
I have sent it twice so will attempt to send it again.
thanks
Mick

[Renaud]

Hi guys,
do you have any advice to replace the fuel pump?

My mechanic told me it's impossible to remove it without losing electric wires or hoses at the bottom of the tank ;-)

[torque2me]

Hi guys,
do you have any advice to replace the fuel pump?

My mechanic told me it's impossible to remove it without losing electric wires or hoses at the bottom of the tank ;-)

When my pump came apart I let Brown & Gammons do the job as at that time all the pumps had gone back to America and they were in the best position to get some back.

If I was doing the job and knew that the wiring would disappear down orifices I would tie string or very thin wire (out of the odds and ends bin we all have) and tape the "extensions" to the tank or suitable place. I would also obtain the special "aftermarket" plastic clip and fix to the pump before re-fitting. Depending how difficult it is you may want to remove the fuel tanks and clean out with fresh petrol. Certainly clean through the fuel lines with an air line if you have access to one (local garage?) and look to clean the injectors. Also, plugs out and turn over the engine by hand for 1/2 doz revolutions.
Kev

[David]

... obtain the special "aftermarket" plastic clip and fix to the pump before re-fitting.

Always thought that orange or white clip was for preventing the filter from separating, nothing to do with the pump? Clearly I'm mistaken!

David

[JakeWilson]

Always thought thatorange or white clip was for preventing the filter from separating, nothing to do with the pump? Clearly I'm mistaken!

David

The filter is part of the pump housing :-)

The wiring is retrievable when disconnected, but it is fiddly.

The original separation clips were orange, the 3D printed one is white.

[David]

The filter is part of the pump housing :-)

The wiring is retrievable when disconnected, but it is fiddly.

The original separation clips were orange, the 3D printed one is white.

Never needed to do it myself, but obviously I was confused by the MGR V8 Worksop Manual showing Fuel pump removal at 19.45.03 and a very different looking thing without any wiring connections being removed at Fuel-Filter at 19.55.43.
(References from the Manual, Service Prodeures RCL0504 are the same as RAVE I think).

Odd.

David

[David]

I had also been relying on this photo and explanation from Nick at Austin's, which appeared to me to be at variance with what you were saying in post #7 above, and Kev's "fix {clip} to the pump" caution in post #5.

The 260 complete in tank unit assembled together as they are inside the tank, the filter unit on the right with said orange clip. Fuel pump on the left, this photo taken as looking from the front of the car into the tank.

Fuel pump and Filter units.jpg

In the same thread, Nick also adds this handy advice:

If the fuelfilter element is to be changed without removing the lower half of the housing from the tank, I cannot stress the importance enough of syphoning out the very dirty fuel that remains in the bottom of the housing after pulling out the paper element. If left in after refitting a new element this dirty fuel will be sucked into the fine mesh filters around the fuelpump on the opposite side, this will cause all kinds of running problems including the early rev limiter sensation at 4000rpm and switching from one bank of cylinders to the other without any fault codes...

David