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Thread: Misfire when warm

  1. #11
    #829 called 'Olive' David's Avatar
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    Probably a good idea to get on to the last owner if possible, to see if the deposit is perhaps a result of an 'historic' leak, now resolved, maybe? I had a bad coolant leak from a badly installed intake manifold assembly, which caused a misfire even after the leak was resolved and everything dried up. The misfire persisted as a result of the leaked coolant having rusted the long spring inside the COP rubber tube, making for a poor or intermittent contact with the plug.

    David

  2. #12

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    The spring plug contact looked clean but to be fair i'll give it a clean and compare it to the state of a non contaminated lead,there is no coolant leak at present i can detect? Whats your thought's on removing sound deadening under the bonnet to aid cooling?

  3. #13

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    It was never mentioned at the time of sale the car has run perfectly for the first 300 miles i've had it,i'm going to check plug 8 as we did get caught in a huge downpour a few weeks ago i'm now wondering if water ingress in there has caused an issue

  4. #14
    #494/SC Roadrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trower36 View Post
    ...Whats your thought's on removing sound deadening under the bonnet to aid cooling?
    I have removed the under bonnet sound deadening on mine (and kept it so that it can be put back to standard if required at a later date), but it is a supercharged engine so I expect that it can create a bit more heat than a standard 260. Some have put bonnet vents in the bonnet to aid cooling, but that is a bit of an undertaking.

    If I were you, I would check when your coolant was last changed and if it was over 2 years ago then I would change it along with the radiator cap. Also if your radiator has not been changed, it might be worth checking that too. When I checked my radiator (factory fitted original), the bottom of it was bowed downwards. I did not want to risk it blowing when out on the road, so it got changed.

    After changing the radiator and coolant, the under bonnet temperatures ran significantly cooler. Not scientifically temperature tested, but my face was able to stand the under bonnet temperatures more easily when I opened the bonnet after the rad and coolant change

    PS If you do remove the under bonnet sound deadening, then sealing the windscreen washer jets becomes even more important as there will be no sound deadening to absorb any water ingress through the washer jets. It's a very straightforward job.
    Last edited by Roadrunner; 04-07-2019 at 03:23 PM.
    Callum #494/Dreadnought Supercharged

  5. #15
    #829 called 'Olive' David's Avatar
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    I guess you should decide if you have a problem before looking for a solution. For example, I've never had any engine heat problems, let alone overheating, so my bonnet sound-insulation is certainly still in place, as is the undertray.

    May have something to do with my 'Olive' being a Rover (auto box) though, which means that under normal conditions the engine will probably be revving much less than when driving in a somewhat 'spirited' fashion with a manual box? Hard to say. I imagine the weight of the right foot may have something to do with it too! A motor being asked to work hard and run at higher rpm, is likely to generate more heat, I think.

    David
    Last edited by David; 04-07-2019 at 07:45 PM.

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