#073

[Richb]

Well, just to let you know that Rich is on his way home from Swindon with 2 new coil-packs, bonnet release temp repair and all seems well.

Won't be long before he'll be green and enjoy the full wealth of this forum

Thanks for all your help last night Herman (there's a bottle on its way to you &#128522, the last half of the journey was a lot smoother as a V8 rather than a V6! Although my check engine light is permanently on now so hope I haven't done anything serious driving it with the misfire.

The car is locked up in the garage now and I need to address the issues it has (main ones are speedo not working and abs light on since previous owner had a new offside front wheel bearing fitted, and a BCU error causing the electric windows to be swapped and central locking not to work. I'll start a new thread when I get the chance and post up some pics.

Cheers,
Rich
#073 260SE Monogram Garnet Red

[Nich]

Welcome along to ownership Rich, get your questionairre back to Tim and get full membership. Lots of reading to do!

Nich.

[Herman]

Thanks for all your help last night Herman (there's a bottle on its way to you ��), the last half of the journey was a lot smoother as a V8 rather than a V6! Although my check engine light is permanently on now so hope I haven't done anything serious driving it with the misfire.

The car is locked up in the garage now and I need to address the issues it has (main ones are speedo not working and abs light on since previous owner had a new offside front wheel bearing fitted, and a BCU error causing the electric windows to be swapped and central locking not to work. I'll start a new thread when I get the chance and post up some pics.

Cheers,
Rich
#073 260SE Monogram Garnet Red

It's a shame I couldn't get the OBD to work yesterday, but I think the engine light came on because of pulling the coil-packs to find the faulty ones.
An than again after both were fitted to make sure the drop in tone was the same every time.

In that case the light should go out after a few normal drives.
As for the ABS, I believe the speed is driven from the N/S sensor so if the bearing is installed correctly it might be the sensor itself.
It could be they installed the bearing the wrong way around and the sensor is not seeing the reluctor.

With regards to the BCU, try a battery reset (battery disconnect for 30 mins or so). This should also clear the engine light btw if no fault present.


Good luck

PS. It just dawned on me that you're only 30mls away from Nick (Austin Garages). Might be worth asking him to give it a once over

[Richb]

I managed to get 1/2 hour looking at the 260 this morning. I made up an ABS extension lead using a spare connector and a length of twin cable. First I connected the 260 loom onto a known good sensor on my ZTT and it made no difference, suggesting that its the loom side in that's the issue. Just to double check I swapped the extension over and connected my ZTT loom to the OSF sensor on the 260 and the ZTT ABS light went out as expected suggesting it passed the start up test and confirmed the sensor is not the immediate issue.

So what should I check next? Replacement ABS ECU? Are they the same as other models? I know someone has played with the wiring before as I can see where the loom has been spliced into where it connects into the ABS hydraulic unit. Does anyone have a schematic of the ABS system?

Cheers,
Rich

[Herman]

I managed to get 1/2 hour looking at the 260 this morning. I made up an ABS extension lead using a spare connector and a length of twin cable. First I connected the 260 loom onto a known good sensor on my ZTT and it made no difference, suggesting that its the loom side in that's the issue. Just to double check I swapped the extension over and connected my ZTT loom to the OSF sensor on the 260 and the ZTT ABS light went out as expected suggesting it passed the start up test and confirmed the sensor is not the immediate issue.

So what should I check next? Replacement ABS ECU? Are they the same as other models? I know someone has played with the wiring before as I can see where the loom has been spliced into where it connects into the ABS hydraulic unit. Does anyone have a schematic of the ABS system?

Cheers,
Rich

Here you go:-
ewd_260_04MY_EN.pdferl260.pdf

[WNJ516]

I think I would try and use your extension loom to verify from the ABS plug unit to the sensor is good before condemning the abs control unit, disconnect the ztt good sensor and from ztt main plug use your loom to attach to the faulty circuit on the zt plug, hope all this makes sense, at least you know which way to go or what is faulty.

[Richb]

Here you go:-

Thanks Herman. Does that mean the abs ecu is part of the modulator rather than a separate ecu? Suppose that would mean removing the whole modulator and associated brake pipes to get it repaired or replaced?

Cheers,
Rich.

[Richb]

I think I would try and use your extension loom to verify from the ABS plug unit to the sensor is good before condemning the abs control unit, disconnect the ztt good sensor and from ztt main plug use your loom to attach to the faulty circuit on the zt plug, hope all this makes sense, at least you know which way to go or what is faulty.

I think I tried that Nigel, I plugged the 260 OSF sensor into my ZTT main loom and the abs light went out after a second or two. I couldn't onviously drive it anywhere but the fact the light went out means it passed the start up test with the 260 sensor plugged in.

Cheers,
Rich.

[Herman]

Thanks Herman. Does that mean the abs ecu is part of the modulator rather than a separate ecu? Suppose that would mean removing the whole modulator and associated brake pipes to get it repaired or replaced?

Cheers,
Rich.

ECU can be separated from the unit. Not sure if the can be done in situ though. Here's a pic of a BMW unit.

DSC-ABS-Module_10-2008_7.jpg

[stevenw]

It can be done in situ,it's not that difficult as long as nothing's rusty or seized.

I think it took me about 15 to 20 mins.

I used a flexible screwdriver with a Torx bit and had to loosen the power steering fluid reservoir and fusebox to gain access to the 6 bolts if I remember correctly.

I tested to see if it was likely to be the ECU by plugging in a loose known good ECU when the light was on .

It took about a minute to do and the light went off,but came back on when the original ECU was plugged back in.