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Thread: Air Con compressor

  1. #21
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    Did you go for the FS one or one of the others? I don't think £204 with a 2-day delivery timeframe is bad at all (well, better not to have to pay it at all of course, but could be worse!)

  2. #22
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    Andy - I hade the Four Seasons Part Number 58129 I have fitted it to the car but it's just free wheeling at the moment as the rest of the system is yet to be cleaned / checked but I'm back on the road and that's the main thing

    Andrew

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by monty 48 View Post
    Andy - I hade the Four Seasons Part Number 58129 I have fitted it to the car but it's just free wheeling at the moment as the rest of the system is yet to be cleaned / checked but I'm back on the road and that's the main thing

    Andrew
    Hi
    Just wanted to share my experience
    Compressor seized solid on Wednesday
    Ordered new one from Rock-Auto on Thursday£208.00 Inc delivery to UK
    Delivered on Monday
    Fitted on Tuesday, running in 'idler mode" for the moment. Not exactly a/c weather here just now
    Will get the system flushed out and re-gassed soon
    Dave

  4. #24
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    Hi, finally got around to sorting out my air con a few weeks ago (I haven't really needed it so far this year!) I know from the forum how important it is to have the system flushed before putting a new compressor in, but I couldn't find anywhere locally that could flush the system for me. After a lot of searching however I found a local garage just outside of Leicester (G&D 4x4) who has the correct air con flushing kit to do the job, so if anyone needs their system flushed and regassed, rather than just a simple regas, I know this garage can do it. They're cheap too and always ready to put the kettle on...

  5. #25
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    Thanks Andy, I will copy your post to the Garage Recommendations thread.

    Nich.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyWest41 View Post
    Hi, finally got around to sorting out my air con a few weeks ago (I haven't really needed it so far this year!) I know from the forum how important it is to have the system flushed before putting a new compressor in, but I couldn't find anywhere locally that could flush the system for me. After a lot of searching however I found a local garage just outside of Leicester (G&D 4x4) who has the correct air con flushing kit to do the job, so if anyone needs their system flushed and regassed, rather than just a simple regas, I know this garage can do it. They're cheap too and always ready to put the kettle on...
    What did they do, and most importantly, how much did they charge ?

  7. #27
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    Good question! I was wondering how much of a job it would be to fit the compressor myself, but with the weather being as bad as it has been and nowhere suitable undercover for me to do it I decided to let a professional sort it out for me. To be honest I'm glad I did as Rock Auto (who I bought the parts from) say you must also replace the condensor when you change a failed compressor for your parts warranty to be valid, and to change the condensor requires you to remove the front bumper. This would have been way too much for me to do on my drive! Rock Auto say you must also change the orifice tube filter, but this is apparently a dash-out job and would have made it too expensive for me to fix.

    So the flushing uses a special piece of pressure kit and a solvent flush. The flushing unit attaches to the aircon pipework under the bonnet with the inlet and outlet connected either where the condensor or compressor are fitted. There are pretty detailed instructions (as you would expect from the Americans who are always afraid of litigation!) regarding the flow rate/pressure/time etc. and the solvent is washed through removing any debris from the system as it goes. The system is then reassembled, vacuum checked (removing the air and solvent residues) and then refilled with gas and the correct lubrication. All in all it took a couple of days including the strip down, flush and rebuild and, not including parts, it cost around £400. It was clearly needed though, as a lot of crud came out in the flushing solution and I wouldn't have wanted that to end up in my brand new compressor.

    I can't be absolutely certain on the cost of this alone as, during the stripping process, Geoff (the owner who's a very friendly guy) spotted the alternator wasn't new (as the previous owner had told me) and had actually been sandblasted and rebuilt. However, the job had not been done well and most of the grit was still inside the alternator! As a result of this, a lot of dust had made it into the front bearing on the engine and caused damage to this too. He showed me the part and it was pretty badly worn away by the dust. This also explained the other noises coming from the engine (aside from the growl of the dying compressor) So I had the alternator rebuilt again and the idler bearing changed which put the cost up. It was all worth it though as the air con is now almost silent in operation and you can't hear it when driving the car (unlike before when the compressor was louder than the V8!) and there are no grinding noises from the alternator.

    The next job is to track down a new alternator though as, when the car starts from cold, all of the lights flicker so the alternator is clearly not putting out the correct voltage. It settles down though once the car warms up. There's always something!

  8. #28
    No 317 Oh yes and some greeners's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyWest41 View Post
    The next job is to track down a new alternator though as, when the car starts from cold, all of the lights flicker so the alternator is clearly not putting out the correct voltage. It settles down though once the car warms up. There's always something!

    Don't worry about the flickering light....they all do that, it's a glitch between the Ford and MGR software

  9. #29
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    Ah, thanks very much! That's one less bill to worry about!

  10. #30
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    If it's all lights I would investigate a bit further.

    Generally it's only the battery light and only briefly...............

    Run the car slightly above idle and measure the voltage at the battery. It should be roughly 13.6 - 14 Volts.
    Then switch on the lights, heated seats, rear windscreen heater and see what happens. Voltage shouldn't drop too much if the alternator is putting out the required power.
    Fear keeps you alive. Fearless gets you killed

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