A few issues to work on..

So, picked up my new (to me) ZT V8 on Saturday.

Had a great few days getting to know the car, lots of character and I love the sound! .

A few issues need attending to though.

The 1st one is a noise coming from what I think is the rear diff during deceleration.

I'm planning on Changing the oil first to see if that helps, but if it doesn't improve, what would you recommend?

2nd issue is some vibration though the front wheels.
The front tyres are a bit cracked so I'm going to replace them and ballance the wheels, but if the vibration remains, what else should I check?

3rd issue is an occasional misfire under hard acceleration, also some unfamiliar sounds under the bonnet that may or may not be normal, but will post a video to confirm.

4th issue is today after a very short drive in the cold morning I noticed some steam coming from the top corner of the bonnet on passenger side (close to windscreen) . Checked under bonnet and seemed to be coming from side of engine. Didn't last long and I don't think I've lost any coolant.

5th issue is an ABS light

6th issue is an EML light because of an EGR blanking plate. Can this be mapped out of the ECU ? Or do I need to put a small hole in the plate?

7th minor issue is the rear end seems a little too keen to step out. Is this because of the diff? Or because the front end feels softer than the rear? Perhaps suspension needs refreshing on the front?

Edit:

8th issue is a slack throttle cable and a rough feel under operation.

9th issue is a slight notchy feel to the clutch pedal.

The slight misfire and the steam could be connected. Look around with a torch for any coolant stains around any of the COPs, but particularly check the rearmost COP on the passenger side by removing the 7mm securing bolt and pulling the COP off the plug. Ant sign of water in the plug recess, or wetness on the rubber shaft of the COP? That plug often gets it being "fed" water by leaky screen-wash jet, or in other cases if the intake manifold gasket is leaky. If the intake has ever been disturbed, the rearmost bolt near that COP is difficult to torque down correctly (access), particularly the final "warm" re-torque, and often gets "forgotten".

A 4mm hole in the EGR blanking plate is a good idea, and may well help with the EML light, if indeed that is the reason for it coming on.

Would be nice to have some pictures of the car, Gaz, if possible (blue by any chance?). What are the last 3 characters of the VIN?
Knowing that my also help to trace past owners on the Forum, and reveal any otherwise undocumented problems or work done in the past. Finally, and most importantly, make sure you join up now as a full member. Until you are 'green' you will not be able to access loads of technical information here to help with the niggles you have. Just PM or email Tim and ask for a questionnaire to be sent to your email-address.

David

Not blue sadly! But the Red is kind of growing on me!

Having trouble uploading pics but it's the red saloon mk2 from Stockton on Tees.

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Originally Posted by Gaz

Not blue sadly! But the Red is kind of growing on me!

Having trouble uploading pics but it's the red saloon mk2 from Stockton on Tees.

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Oh yes, #541, Neil Revell's Solar Red car. I've updated the 'List of our cars in VIN order 001 to 883', not that you can actually see that thread yet! :)

David

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Originally Posted by David

Oh yes, #541, Neil Revell's Solar Red car. I've updated the 'List of our cars in VIN order 001 to 883', not that you can actually see that thread yet! :)

David

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Cheers. Also just remembered it has a problem with the climate control. Funny noises from behind the dashboard when the blowers are on and it mostly just blows hot air except for the rare occasion it blows cold. I had to leave the windows open on the drive home because it was too hot. Unfortunately it was raining pretty hard so I got a bit wet. Lol

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Originally Posted by Gaz

Cheers. Also just remembered it has a problem with the climate control. Funny noises from behind the dashboard when the blowers are on and it mostly just blows hot air except for the rare occasion it blows cold. I had to leave the windows open on the drive home because it was too hot. Unfortunately it was raining pretty hard so I got a bit wet. Lol

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Loads of information about that here (it's caused by the left/right coolant distribution balance valve getting confused), assuming the A/C compressor is working, that is. There are work-arounds, but unfortunately you will have to become a full member to read most/all of the relevant threads. Best get that sorted, Gaz.

For now, just setting the left and right side temperatures up and down to different values between Hi and Lo, may be enough to keep it happy and stop the 'di-da-whir' melody, if you are lucky.

David

5th issue is an ABS light - If you have done all the checks for the sensors and the rings are all good then it could be the ABS ECU. This fails because of the heat soak from the manifolds drying out the soldered joints inside the module. There are companies that will repair them, I posted on the forum about the one I used a while ago.

8th issue is a slack throttle cable and a rough feel under operation. - The OE throttle cable is not great and no amount of oiling will solved the notchy feel. I highly recommend you build yourself a new one from a universal aftermarket manufacturer. Again there are lots of posted about it on the forum!

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Originally Posted by David

Loads of information about that here (it's caused by the left/right coolant distribution balance valve getting confused), assuming the A/C compressor is working, that is. There are work-arounds, but unfortunately you will have to become a full member to read most/all of the relevant threads. Best get that sorted, Gaz.

For now, just setting the left and right side temperatures up and down to different values between Hi and Lo, may be enough to keep it happy and stop the 'di-da-whir' melody, if you are lucky.

David

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I've done the 'demist' test and the radiator fan does not spin up. It does come on when it's hot though, but I'm guessing one of the speeds is broken?

Got a few extra issues now too! :(

Coolant leak from the manifold and the last few days I've been having rough running issues.

Seems to be worse some days than others, this morning it was stuttering/missing as I was going down the road.

Yesterday it seemed fine, but the couple days ago it was ticking over and it was idling like a bag of bolts?

Need New Coils ? / contamination from the Coolant? :(

Also changed the oil in the Diff the other day, it was black. Has quietened it down a bit but is still a little noisey, Guess it might need rebuilding perhaps?

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Originally Posted by Gaz

I've done the 'demist' test and the radiator fan does not spin up. It does come on when it's hot though, but I'm guessing one of the speeds is broken?

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Probably the fan resistor needs replacing.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...airs-pgj000110
Bumper-off job, but easy enough to do as a DIY task.
http://www.spunagain.co.uk/ZT260fan.html

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Coolant leak from the manifold and the last few days I've been having rough running issues.

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Probably coolant in the plug well recess(es). Detach a coil from some of the plugs in the area of the leak and see (single special locating bolt, 7mm I think; careful not to drop it). No need to detach the electrical connector on the COP to be able to pull it off the sparkplug and out enough to look. Probably soaking wet. If you have a OBD-II tester, you will probably see P-codes pending, showing precisely which plug(s) are misfiring.
If so, look towards fixing/replacing the leaking manifold ASAP, otherwise the long springs in the coil-tubes which connect to the plug-caps, will start to rust, necessitating replacement of the COP. Anyway a leaking manifold will only get worse, whether it be a gasket or "plastic rot"

David

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Originally Posted by David

Probably the fan resistor needs replacing.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...airs-pgj000110
Bumper-off job, but easy enough to do as a DIY task.
http://www.spunagain.co.uk/ZT260fan.html

Probably coolant in the plug well recess(es). Detach a coil from some of the plugs in the area of the leak and see (single special locating bolt, 7mm I think; careful not to drop it). No need to detach the electrical connector on the COP to be able to pull it off the sparkplug and out enough to look. Probably soaking wet. If you have a OBD-II tester, you will probably see P-codes pending, showing precisely which plug(s) are misfiring.
If so, look towards fixing/replacing the leaking manifold ASAP, otherwise the long springs in the coil-tubes which connect to the plug-caps, will start to rust, necessitating replacement of the COP. Anyway a leaking manifold will only get worse, whether it be a gasket or "plastic rot"

David

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Cheers! . Is the gasket easy enough to replace? And where to buy in the UK?

Also where best to get a manifold in the UK if its cracked/no good?

Side question about the manifold, does coolant only flow though the separate pipe on the front of the manifold?

If it does, I'm curious why they bothered sandwiching the plastic manifold between it and the head? And not directly to it.

But I'm probably missing something in the design.

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Originally Posted by TyphoonTom

5th issue is an ABS light - If you have done all the checks for the sensors and the rings are all good then it could be the ABS ECU. This fails because of the heat soak from the manifolds drying out the soldered joints inside the module. There are companies that will repair them, I posted on the forum about the one I used a while ago.

8th issue is a slack throttle cable and a rough feel under operation. - The OE throttle cable is not great and no amount of oiling will solved the notchy feel. I highly recommend you build yourself a new one from a universal aftermarket manufacturer. Again there are lots of posted about it on the forum!

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A guy on a mustang YouTube channel suggested a cable tie to take the slack out of the cable?

The ABS light seems to come and go, ABS faults must be separate to ecu codes as I can't see them with my OBD reader. Is there a way to read them? I do have a bit of play in a front wheel bearing, I've heard the wheel bearing is integral to the ABS function?

I've got a spare bearing I bought for the 190, will this fit the 260 ?

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Originally Posted by Gaz

... But I'm probably missing something in the design.

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Yes I think you are!

Getting a new manifold in the UK is virtually impossible. Stateside, and then only original Ford Performance, M-9424-P46, not Dorman (Amazon/RockAuto etc.), if you are sensible. Get the gaskets at the same time. Manifolds are difficult/impossible to repair, and second-hand ones are very rare, and generally not to be recommended.

Just the gaskets from Brown & Gammons at https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/r7...each-lkj000080 , or DMGRS at https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/mg-...anks-lkj000080

... more important though is to get your full membership sorted out, since I just noticed you still haven't done that, and not being "green", will be unable to read most of the vast amount of advice here you obviously need, in threads which are closed to you. Same applies to your questions in post #11, I'm afraid.
My £50 MGOC renewal just plopped through the letter box, obviously far from welcome, but worth every penny for the full Two-Sixties access.

David

Once you remove the manifold to replace the gaskets, which isn't a hard job, check the actual manifold thoroughly for any cracks. I found one in mine and had to replace it.
The replacement was at my door within a week from America

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Originally Posted by jeff turbo

Once you remove the manifold to replace the gaskets, which isn't a hard job, check the actual manifold thoroughly for any cracks. I found one in mine and had to replace it.
The replacement was at my door within a week from America

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Curious about current pricing for the intake, I Googled around for US suppliers, and was surprised to find that almost no-one is showing stock for the Ford M-9424-P46 at the moment. Summit the supplier normally recommended, do not have it. Maybe stock is drying up, even in the US.
Dorman may end up by being the only route to follow in the future. Pity.

David

Try here https://www.bing.com/aclk?ld=e8Hs4Oh...267408c6d15671

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Originally Posted by jeff turbo

Try here https://www.bing.com/aclk?ld=e8Hs4Oh...267408c6d15671

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That's a Dorman (or rebranded Dorman-type) intake. Same as Amazon and RockAuto sell.
Has to be anyway, since the Ford one now carries an 'official' US price ticket of $390

Dead giveaways are the photos which show the multiple self-tappers, 23 individual port and water gallery gaskets, spacers and bracket fitting kit, none of which are needed with the original Ford item. Often relabeled with fancy names other than "Dorman", such as SKP, Autotecnica, ATP, A-Premium, GO-PARTS etc. etc. and widely available in the US, even Walmart!

Attachment 16002 Attachment 16003

Never used a Dorman myself, but reviews and Mustang sites say to avoid if possible; I was lucky and managed to replace mine with a genuine MGR NOS unit, the same as the Ford Performance one.
... but, if you are feeling brave, I think this is about the cheapest Dorman type, via Amazon.com (UK shipping estimate shown), at US$ 140:
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Manif...=A31B1NF333K7B

David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by David

Curious about current pricing for the intake, I Googled around for US suppliers, and was surprised to find that almost no-one is showing stock for the Ford M-9424-P46 at the moment. Summit the supplier normally recommended, do not have it. Maybe stock is drying up, even in the US.
Dorman may end up by being the only route to follow in the future. Pity.

David

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Humm.. maybe I should get a new inlet manifold with a belt on it?

I have heard kenne bell make a good one?

My guess it is another consequence of Covid and the supply issues since, there are millions of these engines in a variety of vehicles. I am sure they will be back in stock one day. Is there no upgrade option? Probably going to be a lot more money.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Gaz

Humm.. maybe I should get a new inlet manifold with a belt on it?

I have heard kenne bell make a good one?

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I thought David made a good point here;

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... more important though is to get your full membership sorted out, since I just noticed you still haven't done that, and not being "green", will be unable to read most of the vast amount of advice here you obviously need, in threads which are closed to you. Same applies to your questions in post #11, I'm afraid.
My £50 MGOC renewal just plopped through the letter box, obviously far from welcome, but worth every penny for the full Two-Sixties access.

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All of the relevant information is on the forum, available to full members, if you seriously want to sort this problem then you need to get your questionnaire back to Tim and join the MGOC. That way you can do the research for yourself. Simples!

Nich.

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Originally Posted by SCP440

Is there no upgrade option? Probably going to be a lot more money...

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Edelbrock do an alloy intake called the Victor Junior, https://www.americanmuscle.com/edelb...ld-9904gt.html
$480 + $160 for the special fuel rails and $169 for the low profile elbow.. and a standard throttle body and plenum won't fit either anyway!
Important to look at the video review on the American Muscle webpage too, I think; not really a regular road-use option?

Then there is the TrickFlow at almost $1500. I didn't look further into that.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/tr...d-natural.html

Can't see anyone stocking the Professional Products Typhoon anymore, but here is a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4S4nmbMlosw
Member 'Mike H' here has one fitted, and I read that it cost him $800 in 2007!
They claim only +11hp but Mike sys "it looks good"!

All are US prices for US customers, so for us there is always the delivery, tax and import duty to think about on top.

David

I'm closing this thread now.

Nich.