Diff clunck and cruise fault

Can any one help? I may be going to look at a 260 that's just come on the market but I'm a little concerned about a couple of faults that owner has reported.

1. Clunck from diff. I'm told this is quite a common fault with the 260's. Is this so? Can it be rectified? At what cost?

2. In order the get the crusie control working you have to pull up on the clutch until you hear a click. Is this a common fault? Can it be rectifed? At what cost?

Also, can someone tell me what badges should be on the boot lid, for a MK2. Just a v8 badge? Union jack / chequer crossed flags with 260 badge?

Much appreciated

Rob

Welcome!

You say clunk from diff? If its a slight clunk when coming off throttle this sounds normal rather then a common fault. Unless something is seriously wrong, the common fault (which isnt too common) is it starts to leak the fluid from the drain plug.

The cruise control lifting up the pedal technique is a trait through the whole of the 75/ZT range, and its only a slight nudge up from the pedal thats needed.

1, diff clunk is the slack being taken up, is pretty normal when under hard acceleration

2, again normal, you can adjust the switch yourself, so nothing to worry about, mind does it, but don't use the cruise enough to bother adjusting it.

on the mark2 there are no badges on the boot, well there wasn't on mine, i have added a V8 badge but am thinking of removing it

My cruise switch works perfectly now my clutch master cylinder is fixed. As the cylinder was wearing the clutch biting point moved towards the floor and didn't return back up properly hence not allowing the switch to be pressed properly.

I'm not suggesting a faulty master cylinder fault is always the reason but its worth considering.

sounds like you've now got the answers you needed

:cool:

Cheers for the responses guys. Much appreciated. Feeling a bit more confident about it now.

This forum thing is great!

Cheers

Rob

That it is!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert.jamieson

Cheers for the responses guys. Much appreciated. Feeling a bit more confident about it now.

This forum thing is great!

Cheers

Rob

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It certainly is Rob. Ites a great way to keep in contact with each other. The info on here makes owning our cars so much easier as well!

:cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VXman

My cruise switch works perfectly now my clutch master cylinder is fixed. As the cylinder was wearing the clutch biting point moved towards the floor and didn't return back up properly hence not allowing the switch to be pressed properly.

I'm not suggesting a faulty master cylinder fault is always the reason but its worth considering.

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Can you tell me how much the master cylinder cost to repair / replace?

Cheers

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert.jamieson

Can you tell me how much the master cylinder cost to repair / replace?

Cheers

Rob

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You might regret asking that :ash

Look for the simpler solutions first... or pretend yours didn't come with cruise control

Master cylinders are quite expensive to replace. If the cruise control is working when the clutch pedal is raised slightly I would investigate the alternatives including repositioning the micro-switch. Remember the cruise control cannot be activated below 40mph (???).

Nich.

If this microswitch called that because it's invisible to the naked eye? I was upside down again looking for it at the weekend after advice from Greeners (thanks!) but still can't find it or (more likely) know what I'm looking for.

If I take some pics, will someone be able to point it out for me?

The clutch switch should be white in colour, and about the size of half a match box (Length ways)
________
Yamaha zuma 125 history

Right, time for another look this weekend :rolleyes:

If I get the chance I'll try to do some 'on my head photography'

OMFG! The fat old bald git has managed to fix something by himself :D

Vaguely following directions from on here while lying on my back with my legs in the air, I've managed to fix my cruise control! Couldn't see what I was doing, but located this ratchety thing that slid back and forth above the clutch pedal. Slid it as far toward the back of the car as poss and let the clutch pedal back to normal and, hey ho, it works! Took about 10 seconds in total.

This may be simples to you chaps, but it's a big deal to me. Mind you, it did take me 10 minutes to get out of the car and upright again :p

Thanks to greeners for the handy hints..

Good man!!

Can you get back and take some photos Mark, it's still light for another hour or so. :~:~

Nich.

Hardy-bloody-har! :rolleyes: I'm not sure photos would help with this one, but once the blood has gone back to my feet I might try.

So, who can tell me how to make heat come out of the passenger side? I don't care personally, but apparently I should :confused:

It is not a Micro switch it is a hall effect switch with no moving parts
These detect the proximity of the pedal hence it is critical it is positioned properly

well done that man!

:cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Keith

... it is a hall effect switch with no moving parts
These detect the proximity of the pedal hence it is critical it is positioned properly

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Well, something moved, and after I moved it, it worked.

Just out of interest, what is a hall effect? Is it that slight feeling of trepidation you get as you head down said hall to answer the front door :~

Try this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect

Yeah, I knew that. Too much time Colin...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert.jamieson

Can you tell me how much the master cylinder cost to repair / replace?

Cheers

Rob

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Master cylinder about £230 should be less than an hour of labour charge.

Quote:

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So, who can tell me how to make heat come out of the passenger side? I don't care personally, but apparently I should :confused:

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drain your cooling system off- assume position again, and put a 15mm t piece in place of your heater passenger/driver distribution valve. should take just about long enough for you to pass out, and not be able to walk properly for an hour when you get out of the car....

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...ead.php?t=5936

Quote:

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Originally Posted by black olive

drain your cooling system off- assume position again, and put a 15mm t piece in place of your heater passenger/driver distribution valve. should take just about long enough for you to pass out, and not be able to walk properly for an hour when you get out of the car....

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...ead.php?t=5936

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If I do that, how is the level of heat controlled?

through the super duper black olive valve in your plenum- or not at all if you still have a standard valve fitted :~

Well that told him then!! :D:D

Indeed - is there a current list for me to sign-up to?

Lastest status (I think)

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...ead.php?t=5854

correct- must get the bits ordered before I piss the float against the wall :o

edit- placed a thread in the shop - if I can get enough interested I will do a batch, otherwise will just do 2 at a atime and offer ex stock