Rear subframe replacement

I've been to look at a 260 for sale today - never owned one before but have been thinking about it for a long time and I already have a ZS180.

The car is in the right price range for a good car, but the seller's face was not aware of rear subframe corrosion. He became aware when I put my thumb through it. It has done less than 1000 miles since its last MOT in September 2014 and it was rather surprising that there was no advisory.

The seller is willing to negotiate on price now, so I'd like to know what's involved in replacing it. I'd rather strip the rear transmission completely, fit new springs because the existing ones are rusty, new bushes etc where needed. I see that I can buy a new subframe from Rimmers for £750.

My question is what is involved in changing the subframe? From what I can see, it's wheels and drive shafts off, then springs, roll bar lateral links and dampers. But then, does one remove the subframe with the differential attached by splitting the driveshaft from the diff then taking it off as a one? Or is the diff removed from the subframe before the subframe is removed from the body?

Apart from the difficulty of dealing with 10-year-old fasteners, is this job any harder than it seems? I'm trying to assess the value of the job for the purpose of discussions on the price.

You might like to send me a private message to keep the commercial part of this private!

Recon rear subframes are available on an exchange basis to full members in the club shop at around £300.

As far as I know the subframe is removed separate to the diff but more knowledgeable members will be able to advise more accurately.

Nich.

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Originally Posted by 6KH

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WELCOME :D

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Best to remove the whole stuff-up in one piece if you have the space and the kit to do it. I've just had mine done over at Retro Lifestyle in Brighouse. https://www.facebook.com/MgLifestyleukLtd

Give Chris a ring and have a chat. I'm sure he will give you a few pointers.

There is a much quicker and cheaper "fix" which involves replacing the bottom transverse tube only.
this is done in situ and obviates the need to take out the complete sub frame
Brian aka "scooter" can sell you a kit for doing this
There is a wealth of info about this on the forum
dave

Thanks for the advice and the welcome message. The problem for me is that unless and until I get the car I can't be a full member so I don't have access to the "wealth of information" or the shop.

The link to the place in Brighouse is interesting and they aren't too far from here. However I generally like to do all work on my cars myself.

I've seen the repair with just welding in the tube, but I'd like to take the opportunity to overhaul the whole back end so I may as well take the whole thing out. I'll let you all know what happens!

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Originally Posted by 6KH

........................until I get the car I can't be a full member so I don't have access to the "wealth of information" or the shop.
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Just ask any questions (about a 260/R75V8 :)) and we will answer ;)

6KH - Are you the fella that collared me in Morrsions carpark the other week, to talk 260s?

Yes - it's all your fault!

what a heart warming little thread. New member, specific questions, practical support, indy skillsets, helpful community; it has it all. Nice one

You forgot this Jim...........................


:hug :hug :hug

Nich.

The Rimmers stock is a lie. There are, as far as I know, no subframes in general Xpart spares circulation.

I.e they are NLA.

That's correct for some reason when stock is zero the default is 'available to order'. Basically if something on Rimmer's says available to order don't hold your breath...

Thanks for all the help - a deposit has been paid on the car today, No. 104. Should take delivery in a week or so.

Andrew

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Originally Posted by 6KH

Thanks for all the help - a deposit has been paid on the car today, No. 104. Should take delivery in a week or so.

Andrew

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well done Andrew :thumb

Hi Andy and welcome aboard. I am in the process of arranging a replacement subframe for No.146 at the moment. As well as the other suggestions for advice, I suggest when you go green, speak to Dominic who deals with replacement subframes on behalf of the club. He is a mine of useful information for those, like myself, who may not be fully up to speed on the technical aspects and options to overcome the problem. He has kindly arranged to have the replacement refurbished subframe enamelled at his end and I am arranging to replace bushes/bolts and fit stronger link arms as well. So I will basically end up with better than new with the confidence that it should never be a problem again.

How does one detach the propshaft from the diff. I'm in the middle of doing mine and it just won't come off.

Loosening the bolts was one of the first things I did, I think while the wheels were still on, but I might be wrong. If the handbrake is still there then put it on, otherwise stick the engine in first gear. I don't recall it being too difficult at all.

The bolts have a loctite coating which breaks down under heating. If needed, apply heat to the bolt heads. I had enormous difficulty in separating the drive shafts from the diff until I applied heat. Be careful though to keep the heat away from the oil seal.

Andrew

Cheers for the fast reply Andrew. I had no issues with the bolts so that was good. It was only when I got to lowering the subframe down that I realised that the shaft didn't come away from the diff. Turns out its just a pain and needs a firm clout to the side a few times and it'll just drop off. For future reference there is no internal spline for it to catch on, its just two facing plates behind the cv joint.