That's the one. Daryl Cramer is the name I was told, apparently he worked at Rover dealer. Is he well known? Or have you used him?
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That's the one. Daryl Cramer is the name I was told, apparently he worked at Rover dealer. Is he well known? Or have you used him?
They have recently become known in mgf circles
Beware though, working at a dealer does not automatically make them good for our cars
Personally I would rather travel and use someone with a good reputation for our cars
AE Wilcox near Bristol
Nick and Jean at Austin Garages in the midlands
Dreadnought up in Scotland
Etc etc
I'd agree with that. Although there's none close to home unfortunaly. I think the nearest one is something like a 3 hour drive for me, hence why I'm trying to find a local place with at least some experience. For planned jobs travelling wouldn't be a problem.
Who does the likes of Tim or Ajay etc use????
:cool:
In the end it's just shot-blasting some welded tubes and coat them. Any proper workshop should be able to do that.
Our cars are not different from other cars. 4 wheels, subframes, doors and engine.
We have to be carefull not to create our own niche market where people think they can up the price because a 260 owner needs work done.
(not linked to the above mentioned ones of course)
I was thinking general mechanics too. Good point though Herman. The local owners I've spoken to (not just 260 owners but other variants of the 75/ZT) have difficulties finding a trusty local garage with a T4 setup let alone experience with the 260
As for the power coating, already picked it up :D They had it all done in about 4 hours. Incredible service. Just need to treat the inside with some waxoyl.
To be fair Colin, things like taking a gearbox out is more common sense than difficult. You have to get enough clearance to take it out without putting sideload on the input shaft to avoid bending it.
It's the same for every gearbox. In our case it means dropping the sub frame. It's people that take shortcuts that do the damage. (kwik fit with airgun on wheel bolts for example)
So again any decent workshop should be able to do that.
It may be a special car due due it's limited numbers but mechanically it's still a car
Just used that waxoyl stuff. Totally different to how I thought it would be, much easier too. So here's a few pics of the frame ready for fitting. I think it looks pretty good. Now I've treated the inside of the frame, is it worth sealing the holes?
https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...4&d=1365182833
https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...6&d=1365182838
https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc26...5&d=1365182835
Looks good.........
With regards to plugging the holes................wouldn't know but expect you need some holes to allow condensation to evaporate.....
Someone will know :)
looks good :thumb
If it's sealed corrosion will stop once the oxygen is used up
A very small amount, only 20% of internal volume
Also if it's sealed there will be no means of further quantities of vapor laden air, causing condensation, gaining entry
Dave
Are the holes there for welding reasons?......stops the final part of the weld "blowing back"?
I'm sure you're right Paul as the holes are in the wrong place for drains and also on the small side.
Here are a few photos of the refurbishing of old 206's rear subframe that I have been doing recently. I would have loved to have taken the whole thing out and had it blasted and painted properly, but that was all too hard, so I simply took off everything I could, cleaned everything with wire brushes and sand paper, applied rust-killer and then painted it all by hand in-situ. A bit messy doing it that way, and lots of hours of work, but finally I have it all together again. The aim of course was to free up the rear wheel toe-in and camber adjusters so that I could fit Scooter's new kit and align the rear wheels (to avoid the wear you can see in the tyre photo), but getting rid of the surface rust was also important. Luckily, my subframe was not rusted to the extent of many of the early cars featured here recently, but I did have to use the angle grinder to get the toe-in adjusting bolts out.
By the way, for those of you interested in the ride height, I'm not sure what the range of adjustment is to compensate for camber when your springs are too low (or too high), but it isn't much. I took the trouble of packing my springs with spacers (you can see the red material in one of the photos) under the spring base to bring my ride height to the nominal 395mm wheel centre to wheel arch figure. Before the work, the figure was sitting at 385mm.
Good job. Once I get mine sorted out I'm sure there's other bits I can work on other than the subframe in situ. The rear anti roll bar brackets and bushes, do you know if they're the same size as the front? I can't find them listed on Rimmer Bros at all.
Looks like you have some nice new bushes on some of the parts. Are they after market bushes?
As this is a current topic I just though I would remind anyone interesed that i still have a full set of four tracking link arms brand new with bushes fitted. they came as part of the complete subframe I purchased but my original ones had already been fitted with Brians bush update so i did not need them, they were promised to someone but they withdrew from the purchase at the last minute.
If any one is interested i will be back in the UK weekend 11th & 12th of May when I can get them oiut of my garage and post them.
Cheers Ian
Brian's kit?? I think I've missed something here.
Unfortunately yes, in both senses of missed. Scooter sourced new bolts and bushes to replace the originals which usually rusted in place and have to be cut out, like mine were. He mentioned this on the forum a while ago, so I bought a kit (see photos) but he said recently that he could no longer find a supplier for some of the bits (at a reasonable cost). The big bolts with the off-set heads and washers have Ford stamped on them, so I presume they are still available. The bushes are probably the issue, and maybe the stainless sleeve, but shouldn't be too hard to get made at a price.
Looks like it might be from a Focus RS mk1. Shape looks the same, not sure about sizes.
http://www.part-box.com/product_info...ducts_id=31494
Edit: The bolt, nut & offset washer I meant, not bushes.
Popped into my local Ford dealer and getting one ordered in for tomorrow. Can't really compare as my 260 is still 30 miles away up on ramps. Will take some measurements though.
My old ones (two survived, two had to be cut through) are 4 1/4 inches overall length, 7/16 bolt diameter and 1 1/4 inch diameter for the eccentric washer. I thought the measurements might have been metric in this day and age, but the millimetres don't line up so imperial seems to work best (US-based I guess).
Dropped the bolts off at the garage. They appear to be the same ones, the markings on the bolt head are the same too. They were working on my 260 when I got there. He was having trouble with some of the seized parts including the hand break cable.
For info the Ford part numbers are:
FMU 1456980 = bolt
FMU 1456979 = cam washer
4 of each cost me little over £50. You can probably find them cheaper elsewhere but I got them from the Ford dealer direct.
thanks for sharing that with us :thumb
Happy to help others :)