If needed: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-WQT100030
... or any scrapyard with a petrol R75 in it
David
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If needed: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-WQT100030
... or any scrapyard with a petrol R75 in it
David
Welcome to full membership James.
Nich.
I'm looking at changing the bcu as it still showing the inertia switch as tripped and still not getting anywhere with the central locking issue either.
Is it just a straight swap for 2nd hand unit of the same type? Or does it need programming?
I had a problem once similar to yours, it opened but bleeped but wouldn't lock or via the key and the dash display said doors were open, I had to change the drivers door central locking mechanism as I traced it to that. After I replaced it, it worked perfectly and I didn't need to program anything, all Rover 75 and ZT mechanisms are the same from memory. I took the old one apart and found a small plastic lever had moved to where it shouldn't be so the lock wouldn't work properly. I put that part back, put it another car and it started working again. The bit I'm not getting is it works after disconnecting the battery until you start the car but you may want to try changing the drivers door central locking mechanism as that could be faulty as per mine, there are a couple on ebay at about £65 (as always the drivers door is more expensive) or if you have a breakers near you you may get it cheaper if you want to try that, to change the BCU you might need the car T'4ed and one that will talk to the innards of the car but sometimes a normal T4 doesn't work on 260s as I've been told a few times by those who have a T4 computer. There are also different BCUs depending on if yours is a facelift or not
Before I had the laptop plugged in I had the drivers lock completely out and inspected. I'm confident it's good. The new diagnostics software shows all doors are closed and door micro switches are working. I have had the inertia switch out today and that checks out ok. Whilst under there found the sunroof drains completely detached from the rubber outlet. Both sides aswell..... rears look OK but a loose fit in the rubbers. Repair kit on order......
Indeed Jeff. As you imply, each of the lock units is however unique to its position on the car, i.e. front-left, front-right, rear-left and rear-right. (Front locks only, will also differ between LHD/RHD cars). There are two version of rear locks however, with or without the child-lock built in.
Here is the child-lock tab to identify the version:
Attachment 15197
David