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mantianak
28-03-2013, 01:31 PM
Any available the days? I need one! How many hours does the job typically take?

colintf
28-03-2013, 05:28 PM
Can it be repaired like others are doing?
The MGOC have done several now
:cool:

colintf
28-03-2013, 06:05 PM
This may be of interest https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/showthread.php?10665-Rear-lower-cross-beam

:thumb

mantianak
28-03-2013, 06:40 PM
Not sure what the others were like by mine is pretty bad!! So glad they picked it up, would hate to think what would happen if it gave way while driving. Pictures below, apart from seriously corroded parts the rest of it doesn't look in good shape either. I've contact a place in the Netherlands who are putting together a delivery estimate for me. Don't think it'll be cheap! The guy at the Bodytech place was really good actually. He said he knows somebody in the fabrication business who could fix it up. But part of me thinks with the level of corrosion I might end up doing the same thing a couple of years down on a different part of the frame.

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/album.php?albumid=42&attachmentid=4824
https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/album.php?albumid=42&attachmentid=4825

The odd thing is there was no mention of this on the cars last MOT which was before I bought it! I can't imagine all that corrosion happened in less than a year.

tonybubble
28-03-2013, 06:53 PM
Blimey that is bad (and as you say one hell of a deterioration in a year). :(

Best wishes for getting sorted.

colintf
28-03-2013, 06:57 PM
Oooops
What vin and how many miles ??
Good luck :thumb

mantianak
28-03-2013, 07:41 PM
No.164 @ 49k miles. Still can't believe how bad it is!

mantianak
28-03-2013, 07:42 PM
Forgot to ask. Is there anything else which should be replaced while the subframe is off (bushes, bearings, etc)?

Also, how long does the job take so I can get an idea of cost in my head?

MrDoodles
28-03-2013, 09:59 PM
Brown and Gammons are showing them in stock, if that helps! :confused:

http://www.ukmgparts.com/product.aspx?CID=0E22B8EC-0CF7-463E-AD82-D76AA6F3E538&SID=0E22B8EC-0CF7-463E-AD82-D76AA6F3E538&PID=6eb76c9c-bcbf-4dfb-8ade-ee650e7e5e1f

jenksman
28-03-2013, 10:12 PM
Hi
The BRown and Gammons price appears high at £750
BUT! we have heard of people spending in excess of £400 for a repair
Judging by the state yours is in it may be best to go the extra mile and buy a complete frame
Don't rush into it if you can manage without the car for a while, something might turn up in the meantime
I also note you live near the coast, salt laden air etc. Did the previous owner also live in that area
I wish you all the set
Dave

mantianak
28-03-2013, 11:24 PM
Thanks all. I did try Brown & Gammons, the lady said they didn't have any in stock and would update the online listing. Tried pretty much everyone else I could find. One chap managed to speak to the company who produced them originally (caterpillar or something like that) and the sale person said they're not aware of the any plans to produce more. Kind of worrying.

Malcolmr
28-03-2013, 11:38 PM
Wow - that is terrifying! Everyone should have a quick look under their car while they are relaxing over Easter! And here I am worrying about some rusty nuts and bolts on mine! In terms of other jobs, you should also see how the toe-in and camber adjustment bolts are as they are bound to be seized solid if your cross-tube is anything to go by.

A year or two ago, one of the collective posted some photos of his complete rear subframe out of the car, cleaned up and painted, together with some discussion of how long it took, etc. I can't find it under the "How To" listing, but I'm sure Herman will find it in a few seconds. I'm tempted to do the same on mine as I have already taken a fair amount off just to do the camber and toe-in bolts (which I had to cut out with the angle grinder - photos to come in a while), springs out, lower arm dropped, anti-sway bar disconnected, etc. There can't be much more to undo!

mantianak
29-03-2013, 12:01 AM
I think I may have seen the thread you're referring a while back, a random search took me there. Some very good restoration and loads of pictures. I'll have a look for it again.

... Still can't believe it. Went in for a standard check up and they found this!! I'm very lucky in one respect. The strangest thing is I've had both rear wheels off recently had a good look around but didn't see it. I think because I was looking from the top down. Having a car on ramps really can make a difference.

zt954
29-03-2013, 12:55 AM
I've got a theory what's causing this will check on mine this weekend weather permitting

mantianak
29-03-2013, 01:24 AM
Keep us posted!

greeners
29-03-2013, 07:47 AM
It's like the Mini all over again !!!!!

Malcolmr
29-03-2013, 08:40 AM
Speaking of the mini, here's my MG1100 subframe. It would be nice to do this with the 260, but far too much work getting the whole thing out...

Herman
29-03-2013, 09:57 AM
Wow - that is terrifying! Everyone should have a quick look under their car while they are relaxing over Easter! And here I am worrying about some rusty nuts and bolts on mine! In terms of other jobs, you should also see how the toe-in and camber adjustment bolts are as they are bound to be seized solid if your cross-tube is anything to go by.

A year or two ago, one of the collective posted some photos of his complete rear subframe out of the car, cleaned up and painted, together with some discussion of how long it took, etc. I can't find it under the "How To" listing, but I'm sure Herman will find it in a few seconds. I'm tempted to do the same on mine as I have already taken a fair amount off just to do the camber and toe-in bolts (which I had to cut out with the angle grinder - photos to come in a while), springs out, lower arm dropped, anti-sway bar disconnected, etc. There can't be much more to undo!

Thanks for the vote of confidence :) Thread is here https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/showthread.php?11492-Shiny-subframe...#post121553 but unfortunately the attachments won't open

MrDoodles
29-03-2013, 10:11 AM
If Brown and Gammons are out of stock, then this could become a major problem for the survival of these cars! :(

It may be worth the Club contacting some Companies with a view to see whether they could repair or re-manufacture replacement sub-frames and have included some suggestions below! :)

http://www.rtracing.co.uk/content/tvr-chassis-restoration.html

http://www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk/SSC2/services/tvr-work

http://www.str8six.co.uk/Chassis%20Repairs/page5.html

http://www.sportmotive.com/chassis.html

http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/chassis_repair.html

Herman
29-03-2013, 10:26 AM
If Brown and Gammons are out of stock, then this could become a major problem for the survival of these cars! :(

It may be worth the Club contacting some Companies with a view to see whether they could repair or re-manufacture replacement sub-frames and have included some suggestions below! :)

http://www.rtracing.co.uk/content/tvr-chassis-restoration.html

http://www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk/SSC2/services/tvr-work

http://www.str8six.co.uk/Chassis%20Repairs/page5.html

http://www.sportmotive.com/chassis.html

http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/chassis_repair.html

Didn't RT do the frame for the TVR Cerbera that was on Wheelers Dealers recently?

mantianak
29-03-2013, 10:27 AM
I think it's a problem already with only 2 known spare frames left in the world! The lady at Brown & Gammons said the stock they did have was bought from the Rover plant when they went bust. So I get the impression that spares have never been made since production. We've just been using up surplus stock from the old days.

david grice
29-03-2013, 12:00 PM
Have you tried Andy at Bespoke auto developments? I got my complete rear stuff up from there as did a few others, he must be worth a call.

jenksman
29-03-2013, 12:07 PM
I think it's a problem already with only 2 known spare frames left in the world! The lady at Brown & Gammons said the stock they did have was bought from the Rover plant when they went bust. So I get the impression that spares have never been made since production. We've just been using up surplus stock from the old days.
I seem to remember about a year or so ago that Brown & Gammons sold them all off for peanuts, £60.00 or so. I think because they were slow turnover items they needed the space. Seem to remember somebody in Germany or Holland buying a few
There also seems to be two threads running about sub frames at the moment. Maybe you aught to advertise your need on the other thread
Dave

david grice
29-03-2013, 12:08 PM
Have you tried Andy at Bespoke auto developments? I got my complete rear stuff up from there as did a few others, he must be worth a call.
main garage number is 01260253996

colintf
29-03-2013, 12:08 PM
Try contacting Eric on here
He knows of some in Holland :thumb

Klaus
29-03-2013, 01:28 PM
Try contacting Eric on here
He knows of some in Holland :thumb

...and don´t forget Damen & Kroes in Boxtel/Netherlands (google it). Ask for Karel and I´m sure he can help you.

colintf
29-03-2013, 04:23 PM
I've got a theory what's causing this will check on mine this weekend weather permitting

What's the theory???? :thumb

colintf
29-03-2013, 04:24 PM
...and don´t forget Damen & Kroes in Boxtel/Netherlands (google it). Ask for Karel and I´m sure he can help you.

That's another good idea :thumb

Herman
29-03-2013, 04:30 PM
What's the theory???? :thumb

Would assume rust from the inside due to lack of protection :)

Drill a 6mm hole in the lower center, use the holes at the top to put in any type of rust inhibitor if you have the holes (if not drill again)
Fill until it drips out of the newly drilled hole...............done.................

Eric
29-03-2013, 04:57 PM
4830I know that former MG/Rover dealer Hofstee in Drachten, Holland has two new ( and powdercoated-) subframes. He bought these from me 2 years ago. I tried last year to buy them back but the best price then was retailprice minus 30%! I sold them for 120 euro each.....wish I kept them...

colintf
29-03-2013, 05:12 PM
If only Eric, if only!

You still coming to MGFIM ??

:cool:

Eric
29-03-2013, 05:17 PM
:ash... but I am coming to the MGFIM....reminds me of booking the hotel!

colintf
29-03-2013, 05:42 PM
:ash... but I am coming to the MGFIM....reminds me of booking the hotel!

Great news Eric

And registering for the event on the MGFIM website :thumb

stevenw
29-03-2013, 06:29 PM
Not sure what the others were like by mine is pretty bad!! So glad they picked it up, would hate to think what would happen if it gave way while driving. Pictures below, apart from seriously corroded parts the rest of it doesn't look in good shape either. I've contact a place in the Netherlands who are putting together a delivery estimate for me. Don't think it'll be cheap! The guy at the Bodytech place was really good actually. He said he knows somebody in the fabrication business who could fix it up. But part of me thinks with the level of corrosion I might end up doing the same thing a couple of years down on a different part of the frame.

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/album.php?albumid=42&attachmentid=4824
https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/album.php?albumid=42&attachmentid=4825

The odd thing is there was no mention of this on the cars last MOT which was before I bought it! I can't imagine all that corrosion happened in less than a year.

Wow that does look bad.I find it surprising that some serious corrosion wasn't visible at the last MOT.

It might be worth people giving their rear subframes a quick check just to be on the safe side.

I believe it's only been a problem on earlier cars so far.Is this just because they're a little bit older or is there a difference in the spec. on the later cars?

zt954
29-03-2013, 06:43 PM
Would assume rust from the inside due to lack of protection :)

Drill a 6mm hole in the lower center, use the holes at the top to put in any type of rust inhibitor if you have the holes (if not drill again)
Fill until it drips out of the newly drilled hole...............done.................

Checked mine with an endoscope looks like the E D on the inside is very poor or non existent we have a similar problem at work it takes a lot of experimentation to get it right air pockets inside the tube. As Herman says load it up with waxoyl or similar. Luckily mine seems to be in remarkably good condition and i shall be taking steps to ensure it stays that way! Don't be lazy check yours and sort it before it's to late. The later car's might be better protected, manufacturing techniques could have improved but I wouldn't risk it. I know this doesn't help those already afflicted but it could stop it happening to you

mantianak
04-04-2013, 08:59 PM
Update on this if anybody's interested in knowing. Dom (Dominic22) very kindly contacted me and managed to get me a subframe! Massive thanks to Dom for this, top bloke! Took delivery of it today, got a little worried as it was so late (apparently an armed robbery locally had caused roads to be shut and therefore delayed things). Tomorrow I have arranged with a local company (KMA Shot Blasting) to have the frame spot blasted and powder coated, I'm not sure if they quoted me right but they said £60 (seems a bit cheap to me but then I don't know how much it should cost). Apparently I can choose my colour, was thinking black but would another colour be better for showing up corrosion if any were to occur? The guy at KMA said the frame would be ready on Monday so then I can drive it up to Bodytech in Salisbury for them to fit.

Just by coincidence we had a industrial cleaning specialist come into our factory office today to suggest alternative ways to clean our extruder components. I showed him my car frame for advice and he explained about how modern cars are protected with some kind of Zinc compound (can't remember exactly the compound he said), which apparently is what KMA will use to prime the frame before the coating. I showed him the email KMA sent me and he said that's the best stuff to use. So I have a specialist approval on what the company will be doing for me. Always good to know.

... Almost there now!

jenksman
04-04-2013, 09:47 PM
Update on this if anybody's interested in knowing. Dom (Dominic22) very kindly contacted me and managed to get me a subframe! Massive thanks to Dom for this, top bloke! Took delivery of it today, got a little worried as it was so late (apparently an armed robbery locally had caused roads to be shut and therefore delayed things). Tomorrow I have arranged with a local company (KMA Shot Blasting) to have the frame spot blasted and powder coated, I'm not sure if they quoted me right but they said £60 (seems a bit cheap to me but then I don't know how much it should cost). Apparently I can choose my colour, was thinking black but would another colour be better for showing up corrosion if any were to occur? The guy at KMA said the frame would be ready on Monday so then I can drive it up to Bodytech in Salisbury for them to fit.

Just by coincidence we had a industrial cleaning specialist come into our factory office today to suggest alternative ways to clean our extruder components. I showed him my car frame for advice and he explained about how modern cars protected with some kind of Zinc compound (can't remember exactly the compound he said), which apparently is what KMA will use to prime the frame before the coating. I showed him the email KMA sent me and he said that's the best stuff to use. So I have a specialist approval on what the company will be doing for me. Always good to know.

... Almost there now!

Come on, come clean on that armed robbery
Amazing the lengths some people will go to to get a part for their favourite car
Dave

colintf
04-04-2013, 11:27 PM
That's a good result then :thumb

mantianak
05-04-2013, 11:29 AM
Come on, come clean on that armed robbery
Amazing the lengths some people will go to to get a part for their favourite car
Dave

:D That made me laugh!

I've just dropped off the subframe to be blasted/coated. Apparently the company do a lot of subframes for other MG's too, particularly the TF's. A local garage specialises in restoring them and sends the frames to this company. I'm going to try to find out more, it might be useful for any local members down this way.

colintf
05-04-2013, 01:31 PM
:D That made me laugh!

I've just dropped off the subframe to be blasted/coated. Apparently the company do a lot of subframes for other MG's too, particularly the TF's. A local garage specialises in restoring them and sends the frames to this company. I'm going to try to find out more, it might be useful for any local members down this way.


Mgf Reborn I believe :cool:

mantianak
05-04-2013, 02:07 PM
That's the one. Daryl Cramer is the name I was told, apparently he worked at Rover dealer. Is he well known? Or have you used him?

colintf
05-04-2013, 02:11 PM
They have recently become known in mgf circles

Beware though, working at a dealer does not automatically make them good for our cars

Personally I would rather travel and use someone with a good reputation for our cars

AE Wilcox near Bristol
Nick and Jean at Austin Garages in the midlands
Dreadnought up in Scotland

Etc etc

mantianak
05-04-2013, 02:17 PM
I'd agree with that. Although there's none close to home unfortunaly. I think the nearest one is something like a 3 hour drive for me, hence why I'm trying to find a local place with at least some experience. For planned jobs travelling wouldn't be a problem.

colintf
05-04-2013, 03:08 PM
Who does the likes of Tim or Ajay etc use????

:cool:

Herman
05-04-2013, 03:54 PM
In the end it's just shot-blasting some welded tubes and coat them. Any proper workshop should be able to do that.
Our cars are not different from other cars. 4 wheels, subframes, doors and engine.

We have to be carefull not to create our own niche market where people think they can up the price because a 260 owner needs work done.
(not linked to the above mentioned ones of course)

colintf
05-04-2013, 04:16 PM
In the end it's just shot-blasting some welded tubes and coat them. Any proper workshop should be able to do that.
Our cars are not different from other cars. 4 wheels, subframes, doors and engine.

We have to be carefull not to create our own niche market where people think they can up the price because a 260 owner needs work done.
(not linked to the above mentioned ones of course)

I was thinking more general Herman

Eg do they all know about how to take the gearbox out without doing damage for example?

:cool:

mantianak
05-04-2013, 04:31 PM
I was thinking general mechanics too. Good point though Herman. The local owners I've spoken to (not just 260 owners but other variants of the 75/ZT) have difficulties finding a trusty local garage with a T4 setup let alone experience with the 260

As for the power coating, already picked it up :D They had it all done in about 4 hours. Incredible service. Just need to treat the inside with some waxoyl.

Herman
05-04-2013, 06:27 PM
I was thinking more general Herman

Eg do they all know about how to take the gearbox out without doing damage for example?

:cool:

To be fair Colin, things like taking a gearbox out is more common sense than difficult. You have to get enough clearance to take it out without putting sideload on the input shaft to avoid bending it.
It's the same for every gearbox. In our case it means dropping the sub frame. It's people that take shortcuts that do the damage. (kwik fit with airgun on wheel bolts for example)

So again any decent workshop should be able to do that.

It may be a special car due due it's limited numbers but mechanically it's still a car

mantianak
05-04-2013, 07:30 PM
Just used that waxoyl stuff. Totally different to how I thought it would be, much easier too. So here's a few pics of the frame ready for fitting. I think it looks pretty good. Now I've treated the inside of the frame, is it worth sealing the holes?

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4844&d=1365182833

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4846&d=1365182838

https://www.two-sixties.co.uk/mgoc260/html/f0rum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4845&d=1365182835

Herman
05-04-2013, 07:50 PM
Looks good.........

With regards to plugging the holes................wouldn't know but expect you need some holes to allow condensation to evaporate.....
Someone will know :)

colintf
05-04-2013, 08:05 PM
looks good :thumb

mantianak
05-04-2013, 08:35 PM
Looks good.........

With regards to plugging the holes................wouldn't know but expect you need some holes to allow condensation to evaporate.....
Someone will know :)

Good point. Shame I can't vacuum seal it. I'm sure what I've done already will be good enough though, I'm just trying to be very thorough.

jenksman
06-04-2013, 12:52 AM
If it's sealed corrosion will stop once the oxygen is used up
A very small amount, only 20% of internal volume
Also if it's sealed there will be no means of further quantities of vapor laden air, causing condensation, gaining entry
Dave

Blue Flash
06-04-2013, 01:08 PM
Are the holes there for welding reasons?......stops the final part of the weld "blowing back"?

re-tread
06-04-2013, 06:42 PM
I'm sure you're right Paul as the holes are in the wrong place for drains and also on the small side.

Malcolmr
11-04-2013, 01:20 AM
Here are a few photos of the refurbishing of old 206's rear subframe that I have been doing recently. I would have loved to have taken the whole thing out and had it blasted and painted properly, but that was all too hard, so I simply took off everything I could, cleaned everything with wire brushes and sand paper, applied rust-killer and then painted it all by hand in-situ. A bit messy doing it that way, and lots of hours of work, but finally I have it all together again. The aim of course was to free up the rear wheel toe-in and camber adjusters so that I could fit Scooter's new kit and align the rear wheels (to avoid the wear you can see in the tyre photo), but getting rid of the surface rust was also important. Luckily, my subframe was not rusted to the extent of many of the early cars featured here recently, but I did have to use the angle grinder to get the toe-in adjusting bolts out.

By the way, for those of you interested in the ride height, I'm not sure what the range of adjustment is to compensate for camber when your springs are too low (or too high), but it isn't much. I took the trouble of packing my springs with spacers (you can see the red material in one of the photos) under the spring base to bring my ride height to the nominal 395mm wheel centre to wheel arch figure. Before the work, the figure was sitting at 385mm.

mantianak
11-04-2013, 09:04 AM
Good job. Once I get mine sorted out I'm sure there's other bits I can work on other than the subframe in situ. The rear anti roll bar brackets and bushes, do you know if they're the same size as the front? I can't find them listed on Rimmer Bros at all.

Looks like you have some nice new bushes on some of the parts. Are they after market bushes?

ian w
11-04-2013, 09:23 AM
As this is a current topic I just though I would remind anyone interesed that i still have a full set of four tracking link arms brand new with bushes fitted. they came as part of the complete subframe I purchased but my original ones had already been fitted with Brians bush update so i did not need them, they were promised to someone but they withdrew from the purchase at the last minute.
If any one is interested i will be back in the UK weekend 11th & 12th of May when I can get them oiut of my garage and post them.


Cheers Ian

colintf
11-04-2013, 01:08 PM
As this is a current topic I just though I would remind anyone interesed that i still have a full set of four tracking link arms brand new with bushes fitted. they came as part of the complete subframe I purchased but my original ones had already been fitted with Brians bush update so i did not need them, they were promised to someone but they withdrew from the purchase at the last minute.
If any one is interested i will be back in the UK weekend 11th & 12th of May when I can get them oiut of my garage and post them.


Cheers Ian

I may be interested in these. Please PM me how much etc
many thanks
Colin

Nich
11-04-2013, 01:13 PM
As this is a current topic I just though I would remind anyone interesed that i still have a full set of four tracking link arms brand new with bushes fitted. they came as part of the complete subframe I purchased but my original ones had already been fitted with Brians bush update so i did not need them, they were promised to someone but they withdrew from the purchase at the last minute.
If any one is interested i will be back in the UK weekend 11th & 12th of May when I can get them oiut of my garage and post them.


Cheers Ian

What sort of price are you looking for Ian?

Nich.

colintf
11-04-2013, 01:40 PM
What sort of price are you looking for Ian?

Nich.

there's a queue Nich, and you are behind me at the moment :thumb

ian w
11-04-2013, 01:40 PM
What sort of price are you looking for Ian?

Nich.

If my memory serves me right it was £200 for all 4 plus postage cost.

Ian

colintf
11-04-2013, 01:41 PM
If my memory serves me right it was £200 for all 4 plus postage cost.

Ian

yes please!
Where are you coming to in the UK and how do you want payment Ian? Thanks Colin

ian w
11-04-2013, 01:45 PM
yes please!
Where are you coming to in the UK and how do you want payment Ian? Thanks Colin

Hi colin sorry i did not notice your post only ready the last one.

I will be in the UK from the 10th of May to the 14th of May so if you want them I can post them that weekend.

Regards Ian

Nich
11-04-2013, 01:55 PM
there's a queue Nich, and you are behind me at the moment :thumb

Selling guidelines on the forum require a price to be stated Colin. I wasn't trying to 'queue jump' simply trying to get a price stated.

Good luck with the purchase.

Nich.

Malcolmr
11-04-2013, 03:03 PM
Good job. Once I get mine sorted out I'm sure there's other bits I can work on other than the subframe in situ. The rear anti roll bar brackets and bushes, do you know if they're the same size as the front? I can't find them listed on Rimmer Bros at all.

Looks like you have some nice new bushes on some of the parts. Are they after market bushes?

The only new bushes were the shiny black ones that came with Brian's kit for the adjustable links. The rubber bushes for the anti-sway bar and the exhaust "hooks" are original - just cleaned up and tyre-blacked!

mantianak
11-04-2013, 04:50 PM
Brian's kit?? I think I've missed something here.

colintf
11-04-2013, 07:12 PM
Selling guidelines on the forum require a price to be stated Colin. I wasn't trying to 'queue jump' simply trying to get a price stated.

Good luck with the purchase.

Nich.

thanks Nich :thumb

colintf
11-04-2013, 07:12 PM
Hi colin sorry i did not notice your post only ready the last one.

I will be in the UK from the 10th of May to the 14th of May so if you want them I can post them that weekend.

Regards Ian

Hi Ian,

can you PM me where you will be please and payment details etc

Many thanks
Colin

Malcolmr
11-04-2013, 11:37 PM
Brian's kit?? I think I've missed something here.

Unfortunately yes, in both senses of missed. Scooter sourced new bolts and bushes to replace the originals which usually rusted in place and have to be cut out, like mine were. He mentioned this on the forum a while ago, so I bought a kit (see photos) but he said recently that he could no longer find a supplier for some of the bits (at a reasonable cost). The big bolts with the off-set heads and washers have Ford stamped on them, so I presume they are still available. The bushes are probably the issue, and maybe the stainless sleeve, but shouldn't be too hard to get made at a price.

mantianak
12-04-2013, 01:51 PM
Looks like it might be from a Focus RS mk1. Shape looks the same, not sure about sizes.

http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=31494

Edit: The bolt, nut & offset washer I meant, not bushes.

greeners
12-04-2013, 05:37 PM
Looks like it might be from a Focus RS mk1. Shape looks the same, not sure about sizes.

http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=31494

Edit: The bolt, nut & offset washer I meant, not bushes.

I would say that looks very similar if not the same... Anyone know a friendly Ford parts person...?

mantianak
12-04-2013, 06:01 PM
Popped into my local Ford dealer and getting one ordered in for tomorrow. Can't really compare as my 260 is still 30 miles away up on ramps. Will take some measurements though.

Malcolmr
12-04-2013, 11:28 PM
Popped into my local Ford dealer and getting one ordered in for tomorrow. Can't really compare as my 260 is still 30 miles away up on ramps. Will take some measurements though.

My old ones (two survived, two had to be cut through) are 4 1/4 inches overall length, 7/16 bolt diameter and 1 1/4 inch diameter for the eccentric washer. I thought the measurements might have been metric in this day and age, but the millimetres don't line up so imperial seems to work best (US-based I guess).

mantianak
13-04-2013, 06:13 PM
Dropped the bolts off at the garage. They appear to be the same ones, the markings on the bolt head are the same too. They were working on my 260 when I got there. He was having trouble with some of the seized parts including the hand break cable.

For info the Ford part numbers are:
FMU 1456980 = bolt
FMU 1456979 = cam washer

4 of each cost me little over £50. You can probably find them cheaper elsewhere but I got them from the Ford dealer direct.

Herman
13-04-2013, 06:22 PM
Dropped the bolts off at the garage. They appear to be the same ones, the markings on the bolt head are the same too. They were working on my 260 when I got there. He was having trouble with some of the seized parts including the hand break cable.

For info the Ford part numbers are:
FMU 1456980 = bolt
FMU 1456979 = cam washer

4 of each cost me little over £50. You can probably find them cheaper elsewhere but I got them from the Ford dealer direct.

Copied to the index for future reference

colintf
13-04-2013, 06:45 PM
thanks for sharing that with us :thumb

mantianak
13-04-2013, 07:54 PM
Happy to help others :)